Formula Review for Deep Wrinkles and Hyperpigmentation on Mature Skin

Asked by: suelavivia669 On: March 27, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have created a skincare formula for a male relative over 60 years old who has deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation (ฝ้ากระ). The formula includes the following ingredients:

  • Ceramide Complex 10%
  • Squalane 2%
  • Rose Hip Oil 1%
  • Horse Oil 1%
  • Glycerin 3%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid 0.5%
  • Soy Extract 2%
  • Centella Extract 1%
  • Bisabolol 1%
  • Carbomer 1%
  • Triethanolamine 0.5%
  • Mild Preserved 0.5%

Based on this formula, I have two questions:

  1. Is this formula sufficient to make the skin look younger (address deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation)?
  2. Are there any conflicting active ingredients in this formula?

(Note: I have observed that Centella Extract makes the skin significantly whiter, reflecting light when exposed to the sun.)

Answer

Subject: Re: ถึงคุณ rat_d หรือทุกท่านที่มีประสบการณ์ เช็คสูตรค่ะ

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your proposed formula for addressing deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation on mature skin. It's great that you're creating a custom blend!

Let's review the formula and your questions:

Your proposed formula includes:

  • Ceramide Complex (10%): For skin restoration, supporting the skin barrier.
  • Squalane (2%), Rose Hip Oil (1%), Horse Oil (1%), Glycerin (3%), Double Hyaluron Liquid (0.5%): Primarily for hydration and moisturization, which helps plump the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
  • Soy Extract (2%): Stated to stimulate collagen, beneficial for wrinkles.
  • Centella Extract (1%): Stated to lighten skin tone, and you've experienced a whitening effect.
  • Bisabolol (1%): To aid penetration of actives.
  • Carbomer (1%), Triethanolamine (0.5%), Mild Preserved (0.5%): Base ingredients for texture, pH adjustment, and preservation.

Regarding your questions:

  1. Is this formula sufficient to make the skin look younger (address deep wrinkles and hyperpigmentation)?

    • The formula provides a good foundation with strong hydration, skin barrier support (Ceramides), and collagen stimulation (Soy Extract). These are all beneficial for aging skin and can help improve the appearance of wrinkles and overall skin health.
    • For hyperpigmentation ("ฝ้ากระ"), Centella Extract is included, and you've found it effective for lightening.
    • While this formula is beneficial, addressing deep wrinkles and significant hyperpigmentation might benefit from incorporating additional ingredients specifically known for these concerns, depending on the desired intensity of results. For example, stronger peptides or retinoids (used carefully) for wrinkles, or other depigmenting agents for hyperpigmentation, could be considered if you wanted to enhance these effects further. However, the current formula is a solid starting point focusing on skin health and hydration.
  2. Are there any conflicting active ingredients?

    • Based on the ingredients listed, there are no obvious chemical incompatibilities or conflicts between the active ingredients at these concentrations.
    • As you and the staff discussed, Ceramide Complex is a dispersion, not a true solution, which affects how it mixes into the formula, especially when mixing by hand. Similarly, incorporating the oils into a Carbomer gel base by hand might require careful mixing to achieve a smooth, uniform texture, but this is a formulation challenge rather than a chemical conflict between ingredients.

Overall, this formula is well-rounded, focusing on hydration, skin barrier function, and some collagen support, with Centella for lightening. It's a good approach for improving the overall appearance and health of mature skin.

Hope this helps!