Formula Review for Non-Oily Serum for Dry Combination Skin
Question
I am developing a serum/watery lotion formula and prefer a non-oily texture. I have combination skin that is very dry in areas like the forehead and smile lines, and I am concerned about wrinkles, uneven skin tone, roughness, and widening pores.
I have formulated the following recipe and would like your review and suggestions:
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3%
- Repair Activator™ 15%
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%
- WaterLock™ 2%
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) 0.3%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
- PaeoniaPreserve™ (สารกันเสียจาก Paeonia Extract) 2%
- Water to 100%
Answer
Subject: Formula Review for Non-Oily Serum (Watery Lotion)
Thank you for submitting your serum formula for review. You mentioned you prefer a non-oily texture and have combination skin that is very dry in areas like the forehead and smile lines, with concerns about wrinkles, uneven skin tone, roughness, and widening pores.
The staff reviewed your formula and provided feedback. They noted that for very dry skin, a watery serum or light serum may not provide sufficient moisture to address the dryness and roughness effectively. They recommend considering a cream formulation instead, which can provide better skin barrier coverage and moisture retention, even if formulated to feel light and non-greasy.
However, if you wish to proceed with a serum formula, the staff suggested the following modifications to your proposed formula:
Original Proposed Formula:
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3%
- Repair Activator™ 15%
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%
- WaterLock™ 2%
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) 0.3%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
- PaeoniaPreserve™ (Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract) 2%
- Water to 100%
Staff Suggested Modified Formula (if making a serum):
- Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) 3%
- Repair Activator™ 15%
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble) 5%
- WaterLock™ 2%
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) to 100% (replacing water)
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4%
- PaeoniaPreserve™ (Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract) 1%
- Add Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 2%
- Add WaterSoft™ (PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer) 3%
Please note that even with these modifications, the staff advises that this serum formula might still not fully resolve the issue of severe dryness and roughness.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
WaterSoft™ (PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer)