Formula Review for Oily Skin and Sun Tan

Regarding the formula you provided for oily skin and sun tan, there are a couple of points to consider regarding ingredient compatibility and product usage.

Issues with the Original Formula

1. Rich Cream Maker and Lactic Acid: The original formula uses Rich Cream Maker as an emulsifier. Rich Cream Maker is generally not stable in the presence of Lactic Acid (an AHA), especially at a concentration of 5%. This combination can cause the emulsion to break down and become liquid, failing to create the desired cream texture.
2. Lactic Acid (AHA) and Sunscreen Usage: The formula includes both Lactic Acid, which is a skin exfoliant, and SPF Protect Ultra™, a sunscreen. While both ingredients are beneficial, using a product containing AHA during the day, especially when combined with sunscreen for sun exposure, is generally not recommended. AHA exfoliates the skin, making it more sensitive to UV radiation and increasing the risk of sun damage and pigmentation if not adequately protected. Products with AHA are typically better suited for evening use (night creams) to allow the skin to renew overnight without immediate sun exposure.

Revised Formula Suggestion

Based on the feedback, a revised formula using Pro Polymer instead of Rich Cream Maker is suggested, as Pro Polymer has better acid tolerance and can maintain the gel/cream texture even with Lactic Acid present.

Here is the suggested revised formula breakdown:

• Water Phase:

  • Water: 60%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
  • Lactic Acid (AHA) 88%: 5%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 2%

• Silicone Phase:

  • Silicone: 10% (e.g., Silicone Film)

• Oil Phase:

  • SPF Protect Ultra™: 10%
  • Cetyl Alcohol: 5%

Mixing Instructions for the Revised Formula

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Mix Water, Safe-B3™, Lactic Acid, and Pro Polymer™. Stir until a gel texture forms. It's recommended to warm this phase slightly (around 60°C) before adding the oil phase.
2. Prepare the Silicone Phase: Add Silicone to the water phase gel and mix to form a cream.
3. Prepare the Oil Phase: Heat SPF Protect Ultra™ and Cetyl Alcohol together to about 60°C until Cetyl Alcohol melts completely into a liquid oil. Ensure they are well combined.
4. Combine Phases: Slowly pour the heated Oil Phase into the Water/Silicone phase while continuously stirring or blending. Maintain the temperature around 60°C during combining. This helps ensure the Cetyl Alcohol remains liquid long enough to be properly emulsified and prevents it from forming flakes. Continue stirring until the mixture cools and a stable cream texture is achieved.

Ingredient Benefits

• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Beneficial for oily skin as it helps reduce sebum excretion. It also helps reduce redness and hyperpigmentation (sun tan) and strengthens the skin barrier.
• Lactic Acid (AHA): An exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells, leading to smoother skin texture and a more even skin tone, which can help with sun tan. However, as mentioned, it increases sun sensitivity.
• SPF Protect Ultra™: Provides necessary sun protection, which is crucial for preventing further sun tan and protecting skin, especially when using exfoliants like Lactic Acid.
• Cetyl Alcohol: Acts as a thickener and emollient, adding body to the cream and providing moisturizing properties.
• Pro Polymer™: Functions as a gel maker and emulsifier, providing stability to the formula, particularly in the presence of acid like Lactic Acid.
• Silicone: Can provide a smooth skin feel and contribute to the texture and stability of the product.

While this revised formula is chemically more stable, remember the caution about using AHA products during the day due to increased sun sensitivity. Strict sun protection is essential if using this formula in the morning. It might be more suitable as a night treatment.