Formula Review and Answers

Your goal is a single product that cleanses, removes makeup, and treats blackheads/clogged pores while being suitable for oily, dehydrated skin. Regarding the one-step makeup removal, while possible, it is generally less effective than using a dedicated makeup remover first, especially for heavy or long-wear makeup. This formula aims to combine these steps, but its effectiveness for heavy makeup might be moderate.

Let's address your specific questions:

1. Will this formula clean sufficiently?
   The formula uses Coco Betaine as the primary cleansing agent. This is a gentle amphoteric surfactant that provides moderate cleansing. The original inclusion of BabyFoam™ (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) would have added to the cleansing power and foam, but as noted in the feedback, it can cause precipitation in liquid gel formulas at high concentrations and should be removed. Coco Wash™ and MakeUp-Wash™ are included, which are helpful for dissolving makeup, but they are not strong primary cleansers themselves. Overall, the cleansing power will be moderate, potentially sufficient for light makeup but possibly requiring a second wash or pre-cleansing step for heavier makeup.

2. Will this formula be effective for reducing blackheads and clogged pores?
   Your formula includes Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA), which is excellent for dissolving clogged pores and treating acne. However, the concentration of 1% is likely too low to be significantly effective for dissolving stubborn blackheads and clogged pores. Increasing the concentration to at least 3.3% (up to 6.6% is allowed by regulations) is recommended to see noticeable results for this concern. Tea Tree Oil is also included, which has antibacterial properties that can help with acne, but the proposed 5% concentration is very high for facial skin and could cause irritation. A concentration of 0.1-0.5% is typically recommended for facial products.

3. Will this formula result in brighter skin?
   The original formula included Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide), which is known for its benefits in reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin tone, contributing to brighter skin. However, as noted in the feedback, ingredients like Safe-B3™ and Panthenol are most effective when left on the skin to be absorbed. In a wash-off product like a cleansing foam, they are rinsed away quickly, limiting their ability to provide significant benefits for brightening or hydration. Therefore, their inclusion in a wash-off formula is unlikely to yield noticeable results for brightening.

4. Are the proportions or ingredients appropriate? Should anything be added, reduced, or removed?
   Based on your goals and the feedback received:

   • Remove BabyFoam™: As advised, remove BabyFoam™ (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) to avoid potential precipitation issues in the liquid formula.
   • Increase Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: Increase Encapsulated Salicylic Acid from 1% to at least 3.3% (up to 6.6%) to effectively target blackheads and clogged pores. Note that this is the powder form (ID 1372), which contains 50% active Salicylic Acid, so a 3.3% usage rate provides 1.65% active Salicylic Acid.
   • Replace SugarThick™ with ClearClean™: SugarThick™ is not ideal for suspending solid particles like the Apricot Scrub. Replace it with ClearClean™ (Acrylates Crosspolymer), which is specifically designed to thicken and suspend scrub particles evenly in liquid cleansing formulas without settling. Follow the recommended mixing instructions for ClearClean™ to ensure proper dispersion.
   • Remove Safe-B3™ and Panthenol: As these ingredients are most effective in leave-on products, remove Safe-B3™ and Panthenol from this wash-off formula as they are unlikely to provide significant benefits.
   • Reduce Tea Tree Oil: The 5% concentration of Tea Tree Oil is too high for facial skin and can cause irritation. Reduce the concentration to a maximum of 0.5% for facial use. While it offers antibacterial benefits, its primary role in this formula might be limited due to the short contact time.

   Revised Ingredient Considerations:

   • Water
   • Glycerin
   • Coco Betaine
   • Coco Wash™
   • MakeUp-Wash™
   • Apricot Scrub (เล็ก/กลาง) - Consider using only the smaller size (200-300micron) for facial use to be gentler.
   • Tea Tree Oil (at max 0.5%)
   • ClearClean™ (for thickening and suspending scrub)
   • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (at least 3.3%)
   • Phenonip® P4 (preservative)

5. Can the cost be reduced?
   Removing ingredients like BabyFoam™, Safe-B3™, and Panthenol could potentially reduce the overall cost of the formula. However, increasing the concentration of Encapsulated Salicylic Acid and adding ClearClean™ will add to the cost. The overall cost impact would depend on the relative prices and quantities of the ingredients being changed. Optimizing the concentrations of the remaining ingredients based on desired performance and cost could be explored further.

In summary, the original formula provides moderate cleansing and includes beneficial ingredients, but adjustments are needed to improve its effectiveness for clogged pores and ensure skin comfort, particularly regarding the concentrations of Salicylic Acid and Tea Tree Oil, and the choice of thickener for suspending the scrub particles. Removing ingredients that are less effective in a wash-off format can help streamline the formula and potentially manage costs.