Formula Review

Serum Formula

Regarding your serum formula aiming for a slightly viscous, clear texture for a dropper bottle:

The formula contains an oil phase (Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil, Orange Peel Extract) and a water phase, requiring emulsification. You have included two emulsifiers: Satin Cream Maker™ and Light Lotion Maker.

1. Light Lotion Maker necessity: Light Lotion Maker is a high-performance emulsifier that contributes to emulsifying the oil phase and provides a light texture. While Satin Cream Maker™ at 1% can handle up to 25% oil (more than the 8% oil phase in your formula), including Light Lotion Maker helps ensure stable emulsification and influences the final texture, potentially making it lighter despite the oil content. It also adds to the overall viscosity. Therefore, while Satin Cream Maker™ might be able to emulsify the oils alone, Light Lotion Maker is not strictly necessary for basic emulsification but plays a role in achieving the desired texture and stability of the emulsion.

   • Note: With an oil phase and emulsifiers like Satin Cream Maker™ and Light Lotion Maker, the resulting product will likely be an opaque or cloudy emulsion, not a clear serum. Achieving a truly clear serum with this amount of oil typically requires a solubilizer.

2. Sweet Orange Peel Oil stock: Unfortunately, I do not have access to real-time stock information for products. Please check the website directly for availability updates on Orange Peel Extract (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone 98%). Based on the link you provided, the ingredient is Orange Peel Extract (Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone 98%), which is a powder soluble in water, not an oil. Please confirm if you intended to use the extract or an actual oil.

Night Cream Formula

Your night cream formula contains a significant oil/butter phase (20% Sal Shorea Butter, 5% Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil, 3% Orange Peel Extract - total 28% if Orange Peel Extract is treated as oil, or 23% oil/butter + 3% water-soluble extract).

1. Emulsifier sufficiency and emulPearl™: You are using 1% Satin Cream Maker™ and 2% Light Lotion Maker, totaling 3% emulsifier.
   • Satin Cream Maker™ at 1% can emulsify up to 25% oil.
   • Light Lotion Maker at 2% can emulsify a portion of the oil phase (rated for up to 40% oil at 4% usage).
   • The combination of 1% Satin Cream Maker™ and 2% Light Lotion Maker should be sufficient to emulsify your 28% oil/butter phase and create a stable cream texture. Satin Cream Maker™ is specifically noted for creating a creamy texture.
   • emulPearl™ (Glycol Distearate) is a pearlizing agent used to add a pearlescent appearance to products. It is not an emulsifier or thickener and is not necessary for forming the cream structure. You would only add it if you want the cream to have a shimmery or pearly look.

Please note that the formulas listed for both the serum and night cream are identical in ingredients and percentages (except for the water percentage in the night cream). A typical night cream would have a higher oil/butter content than a serum. If this was unintentional, you may want to adjust the formula percentages accordingly.