Formula Review for Wash-off Melasma Cream

Question

I want to test a wash-off cream formula for melasma reduction before ordering production. I've tried market creams, and they only lighten the melasma, not make it disappear, even with sun avoidance and applying sunscreen 3 times a day. The melasma remains the same. Could you please review my formula and tell me what might be missing or what else I should add? The formula is:

Water 75%
Shea butter water 10%
Cysteamine HCL 5%
Ethyl ascorbic acid 3%
Mild Preseved Eco 2%
Satin Cream Maker 2%
Odor-Kill 1%
ActiveProtec OX 0.05%

This cream is for wash-off application, so I haven't included many nourishing ingredients. I want to see the actual results from using it. If the texture is appealing after testing, I plan to proceed with production. I need to test it myself first. I previously ordered a ceramide-based skincare product that worked well, much better than buying from the market, because some brands contain fragrance, which I don't want.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Review for Melasma Reduction (Wash-off)

Based on your goal to reduce melasma with a wash-off cream and the formula you provided, here is a review and suggestions for improvement:

Your current formula includes key ingredients known for their efficacy in treating melasma:

Cysteamine HCL (5%): This is a potent ingredient for melasma, and 5% is the maximum effective concentration for spot treatment, typically used in wash-off products. Its inclusion at this level is appropriate for your goal.
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3%): A stable form of Vitamin C that helps brighten skin and reduce melanin. 3% is a recommended usage rate.

Other ingredients like Satin Cream Maker provide the cream texture, Mild Preserved Eco acts as a preservative, and Odor-Kill helps manage the strong smell of Cysteamine HCL.

Points for Consideration and Improvement:

ActiveProtec OX Concentration: You are using ActiveProtec OX at 0.05%. This ingredient is crucial for stabilizing sensitive actives like Cysteamine HCL and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, especially in a water-based formula. The recommended usage rate for protecting similar actives is typically 0.1-1.0%, with 0.5-0.6% often suggested. Increasing ActiveProtec OX to at least 0.5% would significantly improve the stability and longevity of your active ingredients.
Formula pH: The efficacy and stability of Cysteamine HCL and Ethyl Ascorbic Acid are dependent on pH. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid works best between pH 3.5-6.0. While Cysteamine HCL is less stable in water, ensuring the overall formula pH is within a suitable range (ideally 3.5-6.0) is important for the performance of both actives. You should check the final pH of your formula and adjust it if necessary.
Potential Additional Actives: To potentially enhance the melasma reduction effect, you could consider adding other proven ingredients, keeping in mind potential irritation, especially since this is a wash-off product with potent actives:
- Alpha Arbutin (up to 2%): Works by inhibiting melanin production. If adding Alpha Arbutin, ensure ActiveProtec OX is at least 0.6% for stability.
- Tranexamic Acid (up to 3%): Helps reduce melanin formation triggered by UV exposure. If adding Tranexamic Acid, ensure ActiveProtec OX is at least 0.5% for stability.
- Note: Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), while good for hyperpigmentation, is generally not recommended in formulas with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
"Shea butter water": Assuming "Shea butter water" refers to an oil-phase ingredient like Shea Butter, 10% is a reasonable amount for a cream texture when using Satin Cream Maker.

Given this is a wash-off formula, focusing on the efficacy of the active ingredients is appropriate. Ensuring the stability of these actives by adjusting ActiveProtec OX concentration and checking the pH are key steps before proceeding with production. Testing the texture and feel is also important, as you mentioned.

Your previous positive experience with a ceramide product highlights the importance of formulation quality and ingredient compatibility, especially avoiding unnecessary additives like fragrance if you prefer not to have them.