Formula Review: Lightening and Acne Cream
Asked by: womenlulla
On: April 20, 2016
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I would like to create a face cream that is easily absorbed, brightens the skin, and treats acne for normal skin. Could you please provide recommendations or review the following proposed formula?
Proposed Formula:
- Salicylic Acid EZ: 10%
- Allantoin: 0.2%
- Vitamin B5: 1%
- WhiteCumin™ 2x (สารสกัดขมิ้น): 3%
- GlucoBright: 4%
- Safe-B3: 5%
- Zinc PCA: 1%
- Licorice Extract: 0.5%
- MSM: 3%
- pentylene glycol: 3%
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
- Mineral Oil ชนิดเบา: 3%
- SKIN-DEFENSE® V: 2%
- PE-1 Aqua: 3%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
- Light Cream Maker™: 3-5%
- น้ำกลั่น: Remaining
Answer
Formula Review: Lightening and Acne Cream
Thank you for sharing your proposed formula! It includes several excellent ingredients targeting your goals for a light, brightening, and acne-treating cream for normal skin.
Positive Points:
- Whitening: You've included potent brighteners like Niacinamide (Safe-B3), N-Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright), WhiteCumin, and Licorice Extract. This combination should be effective for improving skin tone.
- Acne Treatment: Ingredients like Salicylic Acid, Zinc PCA, Niacinamide, and MSM are well-known for their benefits in treating and preventing acne.
- Soothing & Barrier Support: Allantoin, Vitamin B5, and SKIN-DEFENSE® V help to soothe the skin and support the skin barrier, which is important when using active ingredients.
- Texture: Ingredients like Light Cream Maker, Pentylene Glycol, light Mineral Oil, and PE-1 Aqua are good choices for creating a potentially light and easily absorbed texture.
Main Concern:
- Salicylic Acid Concentration (10%): This concentration is very high for a leave-on facial cream intended for daily use on normal skin. Salicylic Acid at 10% is typically used in targeted spot treatments or high-strength peels/wash-off products. Using it at this level in a full-face cream will likely cause significant dryness, peeling, redness, and irritation, even on normal skin.
Recommendations:
- Reduce Salicylic Acid: I strongly recommend reducing the concentration of Salicylic Acid EZ to a lower, safer level for a leave-on product, such as 0.5% to 2%. This range is generally effective for acne treatment and exfoliation with less risk of irritation.
- Adjust Water/Cream Maker: The final texture will depend on the exact percentage of Light Cream Maker and the remaining percentage of water. You might need to adjust these slightly to get your desired consistency.
- Patch Test: Regardless of the Salicylic Acid concentration, it's always wise to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the cream to your entire face, especially with a formula containing multiple active ingredients.
Overall, it's a well-thought-out formula with many beneficial ingredients. Adjusting the Salicylic Acid level is crucial for making it suitable and safe for regular use as a face cream.
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