Formula Review

Overnight Mask Formula

This formula is designed to provide intensive moisture and target signs of aging and pigmentation overnight.

• Key Ingredients and Benefits:

  • Shea Butter and Rice Bran Oil: These are excellent emollients that will provide significant moisture and help combat dry skin. Shea Butter also has properties that can help with wrinkles and improve skin circulation, while Rice Bran Oil contains Vitamin E and Gamma Oryzanol, beneficial for softening skin and potentially helping with dark circles.
  • Glycerin: A highly effective humectant that draws moisture into the skin, addressing dryness. The 12% concentration is quite high, which is great for intense hydration in an overnight mask.
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): At 3%, this is a good concentration for targeting multiple concerns. Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation (melasma, dark spots, freckles), improves skin barrier function to retain moisture, and can help with skin elasticity.
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: These mimic the skin's natural moisturizing factors, helping to keep the skin hydrated and soft. The 5% concentration is beneficial for moisturizing and supporting skin health.
  • Polyethylene Wax (E-wax) and Light Cream Maker: These act as emulsifiers to create the cream base, allowing the oil and water phases to mix. The combination and percentages should result in a stable cream texture.

• Overall Assessment: This formula contains a good blend of moisturizing ingredients (Shea Butter, Rice Bran Oil, Glycerin, Amino Acids) and a key active ingredient (Vitamin B3) to address dryness, wrinkles, and pigmentation. It appears well-suited for an overnight treatment for mature, dry skin with the mentioned concerns.

• Note on Percentages: The percentages listed add up to 99% (1.5 + 1.5 + 4 + 12 + 71 + 3 + 1 + 5 + 1 = 99). There seems to be a small discrepancy. Please ensure the total percentage adds up to 100% by slightly adjusting the water phase or confirming the intended percentage of Light Cream Maker (as it was listed twice as "1%"). Assuming the ingredients and their approximate ratios are correct, the formula components are suitable.

Daytime Cream Formula

This formula incorporates ingredients for hydration, anti-aging, and improving skin texture, suitable for daytime use.

• Key Ingredients and Benefits:

  • Rice Bran Oil and Squalane (Olive): These oils provide excellent emollience and moisture, helping to nourish dry skin. Squalane is particularly good as it's easily absorbed and helps combat dryness and signs of aging.
  • Glycerin: Provides hydration as a humectant.
  • PE1 Aqua: This penetration enhancer is included to help the water-soluble active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
  • Light Cream Maker: Acts as the primary emulsifier to create the cream texture. The oil phase (Rice Bran Oil and Squalane totaling 15%) is within the recommended usage range for this emulsifier.
  • Sea Kelp Extract: At 5%, this extract offers significant moisturizing, nourishing, and antioxidant benefits. It is also noted for its anti-aging properties by supporting skin structure. Be aware that at higher concentrations like 5%, there is a possibility of a slight natural odor from the extract.
  • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate): Included at a high concentration of 10%, this active is excellent for anti-aging, helping to support the skin's natural repair processes, particularly against damage from environmental factors like UV exposure.
  • Vitamin B3 (Safe 3): At 4%, Niacinamide provides benefits for wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, skin barrier strength, and moisture retention.
  • Mild Preserved Eco: This acts as the preservative system. The listed usage rate is 0.5%. While this is within the general range for the product, the description recommends 1.0-1.5% for general cosmetic formulas to ensure adequate preservation, especially for a product used daily and potentially exposed to contaminants. Consider increasing the concentration to 1.0% for better microbial stability.

• Overall Assessment: This daytime cream formula is well-designed to address your concerns. It combines moisturizing oils with potent active ingredients like Sea Kelp Extract, Repair Activator, and Vitamin B3 to target dryness, wrinkles, and pigmentation. The inclusion of PE1 Aqua should enhance the efficacy of the water-soluble actives.

• Mixing Considerations: Remember that Sea Kelp Extract should not be heated above 60°C, and Repair Activator should be added in the final step and avoid heat. Plan your mixing process accordingly to incorporate these heat-sensitive ingredients correctly.

Conclusion

Both formulas appear suitable for your skin type and concerns. The Overnight Mask provides rich hydration and anti-aging benefits, while the Daytime Cream offers a comprehensive approach with moisturizing, anti-aging, and brightening ingredients, enhanced by a penetration enhancer. Pay attention to the percentage total in the mask formula and consider increasing the preservative in the daytime cream for optimal stability.