Formula Review: Serum/Lotion with Bakuchiol, HPR, and ATIP

Subject: Formula Review

Thank you for submitting your formula for review. This formula appears to be a comprehensive serum or lotion targeting anti-aging, brightening, and skin texture improvement.

Key Active Ingredients:

• Bakuchiol (1.00%) and Perfect-A™ (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate 0.20%): This combination uses two ingredients known for their retinoid-like effects. Bakuchiol is a natural alternative, while HPR is a next-generation retinoid ester. Both are generally considered less irritating than traditional retinol. Combining them aims for synergistic anti-aging benefits.
• Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 5.00%): This is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, known for its antioxidant, brightening, and collagen-boosting properties.
• Protec™ SQ (Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene 5.00%): This ingredient acts primarily as a photostabilizer for other UV filters and light-sensitive actives. While it has some UV absorption, 5% alone is unlikely to provide significant SPF protection. It's beneficial for stabilizing the retinoids and Vitamin C in the formula.

Other Notable Ingredients:

• Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI 3.00%): Included as a penetration enhancer, helping the active ingredients absorb more effectively into the skin.
• TransMoist™ and VersaMoist™: Moisturizing agents to help hydrate the skin.
• Protec™ OX and Protec™ UV: Antioxidants and stabilizers to protect the formula from degradation.
• Mild Preserved Eco™: A preservative blend to ensure product safety and shelf life.
• Silk Lotion Maker, Xanthan Gum, LipidSoft™ Cyclo: Ingredients contributing to the texture and feel of the product.

Overall Assessment:

This formula is ambitious, combining multiple potent active ingredients. The use of stable forms of retinoids (HPR), Bakuchiol, and Vitamin C (ATIP) is a good approach for stability. The inclusion of DMI should enhance the delivery of these actives. The stabilizers (Protec™ OX, UV, SQ) are important for maintaining the efficacy of the light-sensitive ingredients.

Considerations:

1. Potential for Irritation: Despite using milder forms, the combination of multiple actives could still cause irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Patch testing is highly recommended.
2. Stability: While the chosen forms are stable, the overall stability of the complex mixture over time should be monitored.
3. UV Protection: If sun protection is desired, this formula should be used in conjunction with a dedicated sunscreen, as Protec™ SQ at 5% is mainly a stabilizer and offers limited standalone SPF.

In summary, this is a well-thought-out formula with several beneficial ingredients. Pay close attention to skin tolerance and stability.