Formula Separation and Long-Lasting Hydration

Question

Please help check my formula. I mixed it according to this, and it looked well-mixed at first, but after leaving it overnight, oil separation occurred. I thought my oil content was low. I used Satin Cream Maker™ 1%. Should I add more of something or use a different oil emulsifier, or should I reduce something?
Are there any ingredients you can recommend that, when added, feel like they coat the skin to keep it moisturized until morning if applied at night?

All units are in %.
Aqua (Water) 40.1
Disodium EDTA mixed with water first 0.2
Glycerin 2
Propylene Glycol 2
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) 4
Double Hyaluron Liquid 10
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq. Argireline) 5
Yeast Radiance™ 3
WaterLock™ 2
MOIST72™ 2
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 5
Repair Activator™ 10
Satin Cream Maker™ 1

Oil fade
ActiveRelease Retinal™ 1.7
Rose Hip Oil (Virgin, Fresh) 6
Mild Preserved Eco สุดท้าย 3 1

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Review and Recommendations

Thank you for sharing your formula. Let's address the oil separation issue and your request for long-lasting hydration.

1. Addressing Oil Separation

Your formula uses 1% Satin Cream Maker™ to emulsify an oil phase that includes Rose Hip Oil, ActiveRelease Retinal™, and Mild Preserved Eco™. The total oil phase is approximately 8.7%.

Satin Cream Maker™ is designed to emulsify up to 25% oil, but at a 1% concentration, it may not be sufficient to create a stable emulsion for an 8.7% oil load, especially over time. The product description for Satin Cream Maker™ suggests using 1.5% to 2.0% for a thicker cream, which indicates that higher concentrations provide more stability.

Recommendation: To fix the separation, increase the concentration of Satin Cream Maker™. I recommend trying 2-3%. This should provide better emulsification and stability for your formula. Ensure thorough mixing when combining the water and oil phases.

2. Enhancing Long-Lasting Hydration and "Coating" Feel

Your formula already contains several excellent hydrating ingredients, including Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Double Hyaluron Liquid, WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51), MOIST72™ (Saccharide Isomerate), and Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate). WaterLock™ and MOIST72™ are particularly known for their long-lasting moisturizing effects.

If you want to enhance the long-lasting, protective "coating" feel, you can add ingredients that form a more substantial film on the skin to reduce water loss.

Recommendation: Consider adding one or both of the following film-forming ingredients:
- Allianz OPT (Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer): This is a water-dispersible polymer that creates a water and wear-resistant film. It can contribute to a long-lasting feel without significantly increasing viscosity. Use at 1-5% in the water phase.
- Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Cyclopentasiloxane Base): This silicone-based film former provides a soft, long-lasting, and waterproof film. It can enhance the smooth feel and help reduce transepidermal water loss. Use at 1-30% in the oil or silicone phase. Satin Cream Maker™ can co-emulsify silicones up to 20%.

By increasing the Satin Cream Maker™ concentration and potentially adding a film-forming polymer like Allianz OPT or Silicone Film, you should be able to achieve a stable formula with the desired long-lasting hydration and skin feel.