Formula Suitability for Sensitive/Acne-Prone Skin, Alpha Arbutin Alternatives, and Mixing Speed

Asked by: tiraofficially On: January 05, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding two specific formulas (ingredient lists not provided), please advise:

  1. Are these two formulas suitable for acne-prone and sensitive skin? If there are any ingredients that should not be used for acne-prone and sensitive skin, please advise on how to modify the formula and suggest alternative ingredients, including their amounts and mixing instructions.
  2. Do these formulas contain ingredients that cause clogging or irritation?
  3. Are there any ingredients that are harmful to the skin in the long term? If so, please advise on how to modify the formula and suggest new ingredients that are not harmful to the skin in the long term.
  4. For the serum formula, if I want to replace Alpha Arbutin with other whitening ingredients, which alternatives provide excellent whitening efficacy and melanin reduction comparable to or better than Alpha Arbutin? I read on the website that Alpha Arbutin can cause irritation.
  5. If Alpha Arbutin is added at more than 2%, what problems can occur with the skin and product texture?
  6. If the amount of Alpha Arbutin is increased to 6 percent, is it necessary to increase the preservative?
  7. If the amount of Alpha Arbutin is increased to 10 percent, is it necessary to increase the preservative?
  8. Regarding the mixing speed for sunscreen and serum, if the mixing speed is too high, will it affect the product or its efficacy?

Answer

Information Regarding Your Formulas and Ingredients

Thank you for your questions. To provide accurate advice regarding the suitability of your two formulas for acne-prone and sensitive skin, and to identify any potentially problematic ingredients (questions 1, 2, and 3), please provide the complete list of ingredients and their quantities for both formulas. Once I have this information, I can analyze them and offer specific recommendations.

In the meantime, here is information regarding your other questions:

Alpha Arbutin and Whitening Alternatives

Regarding potential irritation, clogging, long-term safety, and alternatives (combining aspects of questions 2, 3, and 4):

Alpha Arbutin is generally considered a safe and effective skin brightening agent when used correctly. Based on the product information for Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) (Product ID: 68), it is water-soluble and helps achieve brighter, more even-toned skin. It is considered safe with no side effects like hydroquinone. However, the description does mention that Alpha Arbutin can cause irritation, particularly at high concentrations or if the formula's pH is outside the recommended range (3.5-6.5). A pH above 8 can cause Alpha Arbutin to break down into hydroquinone, which is a dangerous substance.

Whether a formula contains ingredients that cause clogging (comedogenic) or irritation depends on all components in the formula. Some ingredients can be comedogenic for certain individuals, even if they are not harmful in the long term.

If you are looking for alternative whitening ingredients with comparable or superior efficacy to Alpha Arbutin, especially for sensitive skin, consider these options:

  • Hexylresorcinol AF (e.q. Hentowhite): Known for its effective skin brightening properties, supported by research.
  • ChromaWhite™ (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate): An ingredient designed to reduce dark spots and even out skin tone.
  • MelaninTerminate™: Another active ingredient targeting the melanin production process.

When choosing a whitening ingredient, always consider your specific skin type and perform a patch test before full application.

5. What problems can occur with the skin and product texture if Alpha Arbutin is used at more than 2%?

The product information for Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) (Product ID: 68) recommends a usage rate of 0.2-2% and explicitly states not to exceed 2.00%. Using Alpha Arbutin at concentrations higher than 2% can increase the risk of skin irritation. Furthermore, higher concentrations may affect the stability of the product, especially if the pH is not within the optimal range (3.5-6.5), potentially leading to the breakdown of Alpha Arbutin into harmful hydroquinone.

6. If the amount of Alpha Arbutin is increased to 6 percent, is it necessary to increase the preservative?
7. If the amount of Alpha Arbutin is increased to 10 percent, is it necessary to increase the preservative?

Increasing the concentration of any active ingredient, including Alpha Arbutin, can impact the overall stability of the formula, including its pH and internal environment. This may affect the efficacy of the existing preservative system. While Alpha Arbutin itself doesn't necessarily require a significantly higher amount of preservative, a substantial change in the formula's composition by increasing one ingredient's concentration (e.g., from 2% to 6% or 10%) might necessitate adjusting the preservative system. This ensures the product remains adequately protected against microbial growth throughout its shelf life. However, the decision to increase or change the preservative depends on several factors, such as the type of preservative already used, other ingredients in the formula, and the product's texture. A Preservative Challenge Test is the best way to confirm the effectiveness of the preservative system in a modified formula.

Other Questions

8. Regarding the mixing speed for sunscreen and serum, if the mixing speed is too high, will it affect the product or its efficacy?

The mixing speed significantly impacts the texture and stability of the final product.

  • Sunscreen: Often an emulsion. Proper mixing speed helps water and oil phases combine smoothly to create a consistent cream texture. Mixing too fast can introduce excessive air bubbles, affecting appearance and feel. In some cases, overly vigorous mixing can disrupt the emulsion structure, leading to separation or instability.
  • Serum: Typically lighter and water-based. Mixing to combine ingredients usually doesn't require speeds as high as emulsification. Excessive speed in serums can also cause foaming, which, while not directly impacting the efficacy of active ingredients, can make the texture less desirable.

In summary, using an appropriate mixing speed for the specific product type and ingredients is crucial for achieving a smooth, consistent, bubble-free texture with good stability.