Formulation Advice for 10% Glycolic Acid Body Peeling Gel

1. Ampho-Glycolic™ Usage Rate

Ampho-Glycolic™ contains 64% Glycolic Acid. To achieve a final concentration of 10% pure Glycolic Acid in your formula, you will need to use approximately 15.6% of Ampho-Glycolic™.

Using Ampho-Glycolic™ helps to reduce the irritation and stinging effect often associated with traditional Glycolic Acid, while still providing effective exfoliation.

2. Suitable Gelling Agents for Acidic Formulas

For a thin, essence-like gel texture that is stable in acidic conditions (necessary for Glycolic Acid efficacy), consider using:

• Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): This is a non-ionic polymer that is generally stable over a wide pH range, including acidic conditions. It creates clear gels and can provide a smooth feel. The usage rate will depend on the desired viscosity, typically ranging from 0.5% to 2%.
• Xanthan Gum: While also acid-stable, Xanthan Gum can sometimes create a slightly "snotty" or stringy texture, especially at higher concentrations. Use at a low concentration (e.g., 0.1-0.3%) if you prefer a thinner gel.

Both options are suitable, but HEC might be better for achieving a very clear, smooth, and less stringy essence-like texture.

3. Nourishing Ingredients Stable in Acidic Formulas

When adding nourishing ingredients to a formula with 10% Glycolic Acid (which will have a low pH, likely between 3.5-4.0 for optimal efficacy and skin tolerance), choose ingredients known for their acid stability. Good options include:

• Glycerin: A classic humectant that is very stable in acidic formulas and provides excellent hydration.
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Known for its soothing and hydrating properties, Panthenol is stable in acidic environments.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): While its optimal stability is slightly higher (pH 4.5-5.5), Niacinamide is often used in AHA formulas and can tolerate a pH down to around 3. It offers barrier support and soothing benefits. Monitor for potential conversion to Niacin at very low pH, which can cause temporary flushing.
• Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid salt): Generally stable in acidic conditions, though very low pH over time can potentially affect larger molecular weights. It's an excellent humectant.

Always test the stability of your final formulation with any added nourishing ingredients over time, especially regarding clarity, viscosity, and efficacy.