Formulating 15% L-Ascorbic Acid Body Lotion: Stability and Alternative Usage

Asked by: spondzor On: November 02, 2012 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to formulate a body lotion containing 15% L-Ascorbic Acid for skin brightening. I am looking for a formulation that is non-sticky and absorbs quickly, similar to Vaseline. What are the challenges in creating a stable 15% L-Ascorbic Acid lotion, and is there an easier or more effective way for beginners to use L-Ascorbic Acid on the body?

Answer

Creating a stable body lotion with 15% L-Ascorbic Acid can be quite challenging, especially for someone new to cosmetic formulation. L-Ascorbic Acid is potent but highly unstable, particularly in water-based formulas like lotions. It requires a specific low pH range (ideally 2.0-3.5 for optimal absorption and stability, though FDA requires finished products to be pH 3.5 or higher for leave-on applications), which can affect the stability of the emulsion base and may cause skin irritation. Achieving a non-sticky, fast-absorbing texture like Vaseline while maintaining Vitamin C stability at a high concentration in a lotion base requires advanced formulation knowledge and specific ingredients to manage pH, oxidation, and texture.

As the staff previously suggested, a simpler and often more effective way for beginners to use L-Ascorbic Acid is to mix the powder with water right before application. This method ensures you get the full potency of the Vitamin C without the complexities of stabilizing it in a lotion base.

Here’s how you can prepare a 15% Vitamin C solution using L-Ascorbic Acid powder to use as a fresh application after showering:

How to Make:

  1. Prepare Ingredients:
    • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) powder (e.g., Ultra-Fine, Fine, or Standard grade)
    • Clean water (e.g., distilled water or purified water for cosmetics)
  2. Calculate Amount:
    • For a 15% concentration in a total of 100 grams (approximately 100 ml, as density is close to water), use 15 grams of Vitamin C powder and 85 grams of water.
    • If you want to make a larger amount, such as 400 ml (approximately 400 grams), use 15% of 400 grams = 60 grams of Vitamin C powder and 400 - 60 = 340 grams of water.
  3. Mixing:
    • Measure the desired amount of water into a clean container.
    • Gradually add the Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) powder to the water.
    • Stir or shake gently until the powder is completely dissolved (Ultra-Fine or Fine grades dissolve more easily).
    • It is recommended to mix small amounts for single use, or an amount for 2-3 days and store it in the refrigerator to slow down degradation.

How to Use:

  • After showering, while your skin is still damp, apply the freshly mixed Vitamin C solution generously over your body.
  • Allow it to absorb into the skin for a moment.
  • You can then apply your regular body lotion (the one you already use or a basic moisturizing lotion) on top.

This method will help you get the maximum benefit from L-Ascorbic Acid without the complexity involved in formulating a stable lotion.