Formulating 5 Types of Lash Growth Serums with Peptides

Question

Hello there,

I would like to formulate 4-5 different kinds of lash growth serums. I have the choices of peptides but need it formulated in a lab with a suitable water-based serum. I will be using peptides available from your site. I need you to formulate the standard base serum. All 5 serums have different functions and I will be able to give you my exact active concentration once I have your base ingredients.

Intended Functions:

Activate: Initiates dormant follicles into the growth phase.
Stimulate: Drives growth while strengthening follicle anchoring to reduce shedding.
Root Amplify: Enhances density and thickness by boosting follicle performance.
Root Regulate: Stabilizes and repairs the follicle environment to maintain healthy growth.
Root Pigment: Deepens lash root color and enhances overall lash definition.

Peptides and Actives:

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 (Biotinoyl-GHK)
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Trigonelline
Acetyl tyrosine
Acetyl Hexapeptide 1 (for darkening lashes)
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4
Capilla Longa
Pumpkin seed extract
Alfalfa boost

Please advise how I can proceed.

Answer 1

To proceed with your 5-variation lash growth serum line, we can utilize a versatile water-based serum base and map your chosen peptides to each specific function.

1. Recommended Base Serum

For a professional, eye-safe, and water-based feel, we recommend using a base that can accommodate high concentrations of water-soluble actives:

Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye): This is a specialized base designed for the eye area. It can be mixed with 30–90% water and water-soluble ingredients. It provides a soft, smooth, and fast-absorbing texture.
Alternative: You may also use a simple water-based gel using thickeners like Hydroxyethylcellulose or Sodium Hyaluronate if you prefer a completely oil-free, crystal-clear finish.

2. Ingredient Mapping for Your 5 Functions

Based on the peptides and actives available on our site, here is how you can categorize them for your 5 serums:

Serum 1: Activate (Growth Phase Initiation)
- Primary Actives: Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 (found in Long-Lash™) and Myristoyl pentapeptide-4. These peptides are known to activate keratin genes to trigger the growth phase.
Serum 2: Stimulate (Growth & Anchoring)
- Primary Actives: Biotinyl-GHK (Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) and Copper Tripeptide-1 (found in Long-Lash™). These strengthen the hair follicle and improve anchoring to reduce shedding.
Serum 3: Root Amplify (Density & Thickness)
- Primary Actives: Pep®-Brow (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3) and Trigonelline. These focus on the extracellular matrix and follicle performance to increase lash density.
Serum 4: Root Regulate (Environment & Repair)
- Primary Actives: Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl Tyrosine) and Turmeric Extract (Curcuma Longa). These help stabilize the follicle environment. Note: Pumpkin Seed Oil is available but would require a solubilizer to remain clear in a water-based serum.
Serum 5: Root Pigment (Color & Definition)
- Primary Actives: MSH Black™ (Acetyl Hexapeptide-1). This peptide stimulates melanin production (Alpha-MSH) specifically to deepen the natural pigment of the lashes.

3. Formulation Notes

Finalize Concentrations: Once you have selected your base, define the exact percentages for each active in each serum.
pH & Preservation: Keep the eye-area pH target around 4.5–6.0 and use a robust preservative system for these water-based formulas.
Compatibility Check: Avoid combining Copper Peptides with strong chelating agents (such as EDTA) or AHAs, because this can reduce peptide activity.

4. Important Safety Notes

Eye Safety: All lash products must undergo strict stability and irritation testing.
Application: These serums should be applied to the base of the eyelashes (the skin/root area), not just the hair shaft.
Preservation: Since these are water-based, a high-quality preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol) is mandatory.