Formulating a Brightening, Dark Spot, and Oil Control Cream with Specific Ingredients

Question

I would like to create a cream for brightening, reducing dark spots, and controlling oiliness using the following ingredients. Could you please confirm their compatibility and provide the correct mixing steps?

Ingredients:

Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 5%
ODA-White Plus™: 2%
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 5%
Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus): 0.5%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 1.5%
Methylsulfonylmethane (Pure MSM™): 3%
Distilled Water: Remaining percentage

I am also unsure about the role and necessity of Disodium EDTA in this formula and how it interacts with Distilled Water. Please provide guidance on the compatibility and detailed mixing procedure for these ingredients.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Okay, I can help you with that. Based on your refined list and the previous feedback, the ingredients you've chosen are generally compatible and suitable for your skin type, focusing on brightening, reducing dark spots, and managing oiliness without including ingredients that might exacerbate oiliness or conflict with each other.

Regarding Disodium EDTA, as the staff mentioned, it's beneficial for chelating metal ions in water, which can help improve the stability of the formula, especially with certain ingredients. While using pure distilled water is good, adding a small amount of Disodium EDTA (like the 0.2% you previously considered) can provide an extra layer of stability. However, your formula without it is also possible if you use very pure distilled water.

Here is a proposed formula and mixing steps based on your latest list:

Proposed Formula:

Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 5%
ODA-White Plus™: 2%
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 5%
Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus): 0.5%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 1.5%
Methylsulfonylmethane (Pure MSM™): 3%
Distilled Water: Remaining percentage (approx. 83%)

Mixing Steps:

Prepare the Water Phase: In a container, combine the Distilled Water, Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus), and Methylsulfonylmethane (Pure MSM™). Stir or blend until the MSM is fully dissolved.
Create the Gel: Slowly add the Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) to the water phase while stirring or blending continuously. Continue mixing until a smooth, uniform gel is formed.
Add Azelaic Acid: Add the Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) to the gel and mix well until it is completely incorporated. The gel consistency might become slightly thinner at this stage.
Prepare the Oil Phase: In a separate container, mix the Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) and ODA-White Plus™ together.
Combine Phases: Slowly add the oil phase mixture to the gel phase while mixing continuously. Continue mixing until the formula becomes a uniform, white cream is formed.

This formula focuses on brightening (Perfect-C, ODA-White Plus, Azelaic Acid), addressing occasional acne and oiliness (Azelaic Acid, MSM), providing antioxidant benefits (Perfect-C, ODA-White Plus, MSM), and uses a suitable gel maker and preservative. The percentages are within typical usage rates for these ingredients.

Let me know if you have any more questions!