Concentrated Facial Serum Formulation Guidance

You're looking to create a concentrated facial serum for dry-combination skin targeting large pores, clogged acne, dull/yellowish tone, wrinkles, and lack of firmness using a specific list of ingredients. The ingredients you listed are beneficial for various skin concerns and can be incorporated into a serum formulation.

Here is information on the ingredients you provided (excluding "June extract", which was not found in our database) and guidance on formulating your serum:

Ingredient Information and Usage Rates

• Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed): This extract is known for its anti-aging properties, helping to lift and tighten the skin and stimulate collagen production. It addresses wrinkles and firmness. It is water-soluble and should be added to the water phase or at the end below 40°C. Recommended usage rate is 1-3%.

• Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™): Derived from pink rose stem cells, this extract stimulates collagen, inhibits collagen-destroying enzymes (MMP-1), moisturizes, increases elasticity, and improves skin texture. It helps with wrinkles, firmness, moisture, and texture. It is water-soluble and should be added at the final step below 40°C. Recommended usage rate is 0.5-2% (recommended 2%).

• Wild Yam Extract (Diosgenin 95%): Containing Diosgenin, a phytoestrogen, this extract moisturizes, firms, and strengthens skin cells, helping to restore smoothness and elasticity. It also has properties that can help reduce skin irritation. It addresses dryness, firmness, wrinkles, and irritation. It is oil-soluble and should be mixed in the oil phase, tolerating heat up to 60°C for a short time. Recommended usage rate is 0.1-0.5% (recommended 0.2%).

• Olive Extract (Hydroxytyrosol, Oleuropein): Extracted from olive fruit and leaves, this ingredient offers anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, and anti-bacterial benefits, while also fighting free radicals. It can help with wrinkles, aging, and potentially acne due to its anti-bacterial action. It is water-soluble and should be mixed in the water phase or at the end below 40°C. Recommended usage rate is 0.1-5%.

• Sea Buckthorn (Fruit) Oil: This oil helps restore healthy skin, reduces inflammation, aids wound healing, and protects against environmental damage. It contains beneficial vitamins and antioxidants. It addresses dryness, inflammation, and provides protection. It is an oil and should be mixed into the oil phase, avoiding heat. Recommended usage rate is 1-100% (a lower percentage like 1-10% is typical for a serum).

• Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract): This extract enhances skin cell turnover, restores the skin barrier, hydrates, and improves overall skin quality and texture. It is an effective anti-aging agent that provides a comprehensive effect, requiring continuous use for at least 30 days for clear results. It addresses texture, hydration, barrier function, and aging. It is water-soluble and should be dispersed in water. Recommended usage rate is 1-3% (recommended 1%).

• Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation): This extract helps reduce or delay the glycation process in the skin, which contributes to a yellowish appearance, helping to keep the skin looking bright. It specifically targets the dull/yellowish tone concern. It is water-soluble and should be mixed in water, avoiding heat above 40°C and added at the last step if the formula is heated. Recommended usage rate is 1-4% (recommended 2-3%).

Formulation Considerations

Since your desired ingredients include both water-soluble extracts and oil-soluble components (Wild Yam Extract and Sea Buckthorn Oil), you will need to create a formulation that can effectively combine these. A simple water-based serum will not be suitable for the oil-soluble ingredients. You could consider:

1. An Emulsion Serum: This is a light cream or lotion consistency that uses an emulsifier to blend the water and oil phases. This is a common way to incorporate both types of ingredients.
2. A Biphasic Serum: This type of serum separates into two layers (water and oil) when standing and requires shaking before use.

General Steps for Making an Emulsion Serum

1. Prepare Phases: Create your water phase by combining water and water-soluble ingredients that can tolerate some heat (if any). Create your oil phase by combining your oils and oil-soluble ingredients (like Wild Yam Extract and Sea Buckthorn Oil). Note the heat sensitivity of Sea Buckthorn Oil and most extracts.
2. Heat (if necessary for emulsification): If your chosen emulsifier requires heating, gently heat the water and oil phases separately to the required temperature (usually around 70-75°C), ensuring Wild Yam is dissolved in the oil phase (briefly up to 60°C if needed, but minimize heat exposure for Sea Buckthorn). However, given the heat sensitivity of most of your extracts, a cold-process or low-heat emulsifier might be preferable, or you will need to add most ingredients in the cool-down phase.
3. Combine Phases: Pour the oil phase into the water phase (or vice versa, depending on your emulsifier instructions) and mix using a homogenizer or high-shear mixer to create the emulsion.
4. Cool Down Phase: Once the emulsion has formed and is cooling (below 40°C), add your heat-sensitive water-soluble extracts (Wakame, Rosa Hybrid Cell, Olive, Japanese Cedar, Ume) and your preservative.
5. Adjust pH: Check and adjust the pH of your final serum to be within the recommended range for the extracts (generally 4.0-6.5). This is crucial for stability and skin compatibility.
6. Final Mixing: Mix thoroughly to ensure all ingredients are evenly distributed.

Remember to follow good manufacturing practices, including sanitizing your equipment and workspace.

Regarding melasma and freckles, while these ingredients offer overall skin health benefits, they are not specifically targeted treatments for hyperpigmentation. You may need to consider adding ingredients specifically known for their effects on dark spots if this is a primary concern.

We were unable to find information on "June extract" in our database. Please double-check the name or source of this ingredient.

For detailed instructions on basic cosmetic formulation, please refer to introductory guides on making serums, creams, or gels.