Formulating a Cream with High Concentration Glycolic Acid (AHA)

Question

I would like to create a cream formulation containing a high concentration of AHA, specifically 5% glycolic acid. What emulsifier and thickener should I use to successfully formulate this cream, considering the high acidity? Could you provide an example formula?

I am looking for a formula with the following ingredients:

Luxury Cream Maker
Pro Polymer
glycolic acid 5%
PE-1 Aqua
Fractionated Coconut Oil
glycerin
Phenoxyethanol SA
Water

The desired formula should provide moisture and exfoliate skin cells.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello. We recommend considering using Luxury Cream Maker to create the cream texture. Using AHA at high levels may require using Pro Polymer together to help create the texture, as ingredients with high acidity make formulating and texturizing more difficult. Example formula: Luxury Cream Maker 4% Pro Polymer 1% glycolic acid 5% [Small molecule AHA, easily absorbed into the skin] PE-1 Aqua 3% [Helps carry AHA to absorb deeper] Fractionated Coconut Oil 10% [Provides skin moisture, replenishes oil] glycerin 5% [Provides a moisturizing skin feel] Phenoxyethanol SA 1% [Preservative] Water Remaining amount The formula will provide moisture and exfoliate skin cells only. Thank you. Staff - MySkinRecipes