Formulating a Cream with Vitamin C, Heat-Sensitive Ingredients, Willow Bark Extract, and MOIST24 in Sunscreen

ถามโดย: jiralexk เมื่อ: July 22, 2016 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am formulating a cream and have several questions regarding ingredient compatibility, mixing procedures, and specific ingredient functions:

  1. Is a pH range of 3.5-4 suitable for a cream containing Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Ceramide Complex, White Cumin 2x, Pep Coll, Coenzyme Q10, Lift Now, and Wrinkle-Fill?
  2. When using Soft Cream Maker, which requires heating the oil phase to 60-70°C, how should I incorporate heat-sensitive ingredients like Pep Coll? Will adding them after cooling affect the cream's texture setting or cause separation if they only disperse and not fully dissolve?
  3. Can Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) effectively help dissolve clogged pores and exfoliate skin? How does its efficacy compare to synthetic Salicylic Acid, Salicylic Acid EZ™, and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid?
  4. Can MOIST24 be used in chemical sunscreen formulas? What benefits does it offer in this type of formulation?

คำตอบ

Formulation Advice for Your Cream

Here is the information regarding your questions about formulating a cream with a pH of 3.5-4 and incorporating specific ingredients:

1. Ingredient Compatibility at pH 3.5-4

Formulating your cream within the pH range of 3.5-4 is suitable, especially if you intend to include Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). L-Ascorbic Acid is most effective within a pH range of 2.0-4.0, and the FDA requires a minimum pH of 3.5 for leave-on products containing it. Your target range of 3.5-4 falls perfectly within this optimal and required range for Vitamin C efficacy and safety.

Based on the available information, the other ingredients you listed – Ceramide Complex, White Cumin 2x, Pep Coll, Coenzyme Q10, Lift Now, and Wrinkle-Fill – do not have explicit pH restrictions in their descriptions that would make them unsuitable for a pH of 3.5-4. While Soft Cream Maker can be used in a wide pH range of 3-12, Wrinkle-Fill itself is acidic (pH 2-3 at 2.5%), suggesting compatibility with acidic conditions. Therefore, maintaining your cream's pH between 3.5-4 should allow for the effective use of Vitamin C while being compatible with the other ingredients.

2. Incorporating Heat-Sensitive Ingredients with Soft Cream Maker

When using Soft Cream Maker, which requires heating the oil phase to 60-70°C, you should add heat-sensitive ingredients like Pep Coll after the main cream emulsion has been formed and has cooled down. Pep Coll, for instance, should be mixed in at temperatures below 40°C. Add these ingredients in the final step and mix gently but thoroughly to ensure they are evenly dispersed throughout the cream. This method will not negatively affect the cream's texture setting process. However, if an ingredient does not fully dissolve and only disperses, insufficient mixing at this stage could potentially lead to separation over time.

3. Willow Bark Extract for Clogged Pores

Yes, Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid) can help dissolve clogged pores and exfoliate the skin. It contains natural Salicylic Acid, and at a 10% concentration, it provides approximately 1.8-2.0% active Salicylic Acid, which is effective for skin exfoliation and dissolving acne breakouts. While it offers additional benefits such as reducing irritation and helping to thicken the skin, it does possess the pore-clearing property similar to synthetic Salicylic Acid, Salicylic Acid EZ™, and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid.

4. MOIST24 in Chemical Sunscreen Formulas

MOIST24 can indeed be used in chemical sunscreen formulas. It functions as a humectant, helping to retain moisture in the skin. Additionally, it helps to improve the texture and feel of the formula, contributing to faster absorption into the skin. MOIST24 is also noted to help dissolve or disperse ingredients like UV filters, which is beneficial in sunscreen formulations. While it may not be classified as a direct penetration enhancer in the same way some glycols are, it is compatible with chemical sunscreen formulations and offers valuable benefits.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
เครื่องสำอาง
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Lift-Now™
Lift-Now™
เครื่องสำอาง
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Soft Cream Maker™
Soft Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
Coenzyme Q10 (98%, Powder, Oil-Soluble)
Coenzyme Q10 (98%, Powder, Oil-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST24
MOIST24
เครื่องสำอาง
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)
Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Coenzyme Q10 (10%, Encapsulate Powder, Water-Soluble)
Coenzyme Q10 (10%, Encapsulate Powder, Water-Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง