Formulating a Foaming Facial Cleanser for Foam Pump Bottles

Question

I want to formulate a foaming facial cleanser from a liquid base, similar to products I've used in the US that come out as a mousse-like foam when using a foam pump bottle. I understand the key is the foaming pump packaging. I have a basic formula structure and ingredient list:

Formula Structure:

Water
Cleansing agents (Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Mild-Wash™ (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate))
Preservative (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol)
Nourishing agents (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Allantoin)
Slip agents (Glycerin, Propylene Glycol)
pH adjuster / Chelating agent (Citric Acid / Disodium EDTA)

Could you provide guidance on selecting and adjusting the percentages of these ingredients to create a gentle, effective liquid cleanser that will dispense as a good foam using a foam pump bottle? Specifically, I'm looking for recommendations on the types and amounts of cleansing agents, preservatives, nourishing agents, and slip agents, and how to adjust pH.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Creating Your Own Foaming Facial Cleanser

It's great that you're looking to recreate a favorite foaming cleanser! As you've noted, the key to getting a liquid formula to dispense as foam is primarily the foaming pump bottle itself, which incorporates air into the liquid during pumping. The liquid formula needs to be thin and contain suitable surfactants.

Based on the ingredient list you provided and common practices for gentle cleansers, here's a breakdown and recommendations:

Essential Components:

Water: The main base (60-80%+).
Cleansing Agents (Surfactants): These clean the skin and create foam. For a gentle, non-drying formula, mild surfactants are crucial. Recommended options include:
- Lauryl Glucoside: Suggested ~5%
- Mild-Wash™ (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate): Suggested ~3%
- Note: The total percentage of surfactants can be adjusted slightly based on desired cleansing power, but higher amounts might reduce gentleness.
Preservative: Necessary for product safety. A common mild option is:
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin): Suggested ~1% (or use a blend like Phenoxyethanol + Caprylyl Glycol following supplier guidelines).
pH Adjuster: To ensure the cleanser is skin-compatible (ideally around pH 5.5).:
- Citric Acid: Add small amounts at the end until desired pH is reached.

Optional (Beneficial) Components:

Nourishing/Soothing Agents: Improve skin feel and provide benefits in a rinse-off product:
- Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Suggested ~5% (soothing, hydrating)
- Allantoin: Suggested ~0.5% (soothing, anti-irritant)
- Note: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) is also in your original list but may have limited efficacy in a rinse-off product compared to leave-on serums.
Humectants/Slip Agents: Add hydration and influence feel:
- Glycerin: Suggested ~5-10% (or even up to 20% as it's less sticky)
- Propylene Glycol: Suggested ~0-8% (can feel sticky at higher levels; omit if you dislike the feel or want no residue)
Chelating Agent: Helps stabilize the formula by binding metal ions:
- Disodium EDTA: Suggested ~0.1-0.2% (optional for small, personal batches)

Suggested Simple Formula Structure:

Water: Up to 100%
Lauryl Glucoside: 5%
Mild-Wash™ (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate): 3%
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Ethylhexylglycerin): 1%
Panthenol: 5%
Allantoin: 0.5%
Glycerin: 5-10%
Disodium EDTA: 0.1% (Optional)
Citric Acid: Adjust pH to ~5.5

Mix ingredients in order, ensuring each is dissolved before adding the next. Adjust Glycerin/Propylene Glycol percentages based on your preferred skin feel (less sticky/slippery). Always check and adjust the final pH.

Remember, the foaming pump bottle is essential for the mousse-like texture!