Formulating a High-Coverage, Oil-Controlling, Long-Lasting Foundation

Asked by: petchroong On: December 04, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the provided Revlon foundation ingredient list, please analyze the formula and suggest ingredients to create a DIY foundation with high-coverage, oil-controlling, and long-lasting properties.

Answer

Based on the Revlon ingredient list you provided and your goal to create a high-coverage, oil-controlling, and long-lasting foundation, here's an analysis and suggestions for ingredients you would need:

The Revlon formula uses a silicone-heavy base with a significant amount of pigments and powders, which is typical for long-wearing, matte foundations. To achieve similar properties, you will need ingredients that provide coverage, absorb oil, and create a durable film on the skin.

Here are the key ingredient types and examples from the search results that can help you formulate your foundation:

1. Pigments for Coverage and Color

High coverage comes primarily from Titanium Dioxide and Iron Oxides. You will need a blend of these to match your skin tone. Look for types optimized for makeup coverage.

  • Titanium Dioxide: Provides white coverage and UV protection. Look for types optimized for makeup coverage.
    • Titanium Dioxide 400nm WaterProof™ (Super Coverage)
    • Titanium Dioxide FoundationPro™
    • Titanium Dioxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ (Dimethicone/Silica Treated)
    • Titanium Dioxide 300nm WaterProof™ (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Treated)
  • Iron Oxides: Provide the skin tone color (yellow, red, black). You'll need to blend these with Titanium Dioxide to get the right shade. Look for treated versions for better performance in silicone formulas.
    • Iron Oxides Yellow (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated)
    • Iron Oxides Red (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated)
    • Iron Oxides Black (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated)
    • Iron Oxides Yellow (FoundationPro™)
    • Iron Oxides Red (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated)
    • Iron Oxides Black (Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated)
  • Zinc Oxide: Contributes to coverage and can help with oil control and UV protection.
    • Zinc Oxide (Micronized)
    • Zinc Oxide (Ultra-Fine, Non-Yellow, Non-Coated, USP)

2. Oil Absorbing Powders for a Matte Finish

These powders help control shine throughout the day.

  • Silica: Excellent for absorbing oil and providing a matte finish.
    • Anti-Caking Silica helps absorb moisture and prevent clumping.
    • UltraBlur™ (Skin Blurring Silica) offers blurring effects in addition to some oil absorption.
  • Nylon-12: Provides a creamy feel and helps absorb oil, contributing to a matte finish and good adherence to the skin.
    • Nylon-12 (7 micron, Matte, Creamy, Korea)
    • Nylon-12 (5 micron, Matte, Powderly, China)
  • Alumina: Can contribute to a soft feel and help with texture.
    • Alumina (5micron, Spherical)

3. Silicones and Film Formers for Long-Lasting Wear and Texture

Silicones form the base and provide the smooth, non-greasy feel, while film formers create a durable layer for long wear.

  • Volatile Silicones: Provide a light feel and evaporate after application.
    • Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone) is a common choice.
  • Non-Volatile Silicones: Provide slip, smoothness, and conditioning.
    • Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor), Dimethicone (Very Light/5, Low-Odor), Dimethicone (Ultra Light/1.5, Low-Odor), Dimethicone (Light/20, Low-Odor) offer different levels of lightness.
  • Silicone Gels/Elastomers: Improve texture, provide a matte look, and can help with oil control.
    • Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)
    • Silicone Gel 9040 (e.q. DC 9040, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)
    • SiliSilk™ 1.5Micron (Silky Touch, Soft-Focus) is a silicone powder for texture.
  • Film Formers: Create a flexible film on the skin for long wear and transfer resistance.
    • Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) and Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) contain Trimethylsiloxysilicate, a key film former.
    • Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Trifluoropropyl Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer is a fluorosilicone that provides water and oil resistance for long wear.

4. Other Ingredients

You would also need emulsifiers to stabilize the formula (especially if it's a water-in-silicone emulsion), emollients for skin feel, humectants for hydration, and a preservative system. Tribehenin is a soft wax that can help bind ingredients and improve texture.

Formulating a stable foundation, especially a silicone-based or water-in-silicone emulsion, requires careful selection and balancing of ingredients, particularly the emulsifier system, and often requires specific mixing equipment like a high-shear mixer to properly disperse pigments and create a stable emulsion.

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