Formulating a Light Cream for Oily Skin: Anti-Aging, Oil Control, and Marks

Question

I am developing a cream formulation for combination/oily skin with the goals of providing moisture, elasticity, smoothness, anti-aging benefits, and addressing acne and post-acne marks, while maintaining a light, easily absorbed texture. I have included ingredients like Kinetin, Green Tea Extract, and Vitamin B3 in my current formulation. Based on these goals and skin type, could you provide feedback and suggestions for my formula, particularly regarding ingredients that might make it too heavy or oily? Additionally, I would like to confirm if Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA2G) is suitable for use in this type of cream formulation during the daytime.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Review and Suggestions for Oily Skin

Thank you for sharing your formula and skin concerns. Your goal is to address moisture, elasticity, smoothness, anti-aging, acne, and post-acne marks on combination/oily skin with a light texture.

Your current formula includes beneficial ingredients like Kinetin, Green Tea Extract, and Vitamin B3, which target anti-aging, antioxidants, oil control, and marks.

However, for skin that is prone to oiliness, ingredients such as Sea Kelp Extract, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Rose Hip Oil, and Squalane, especially at these percentages, might contribute to a heavier feel and potentially increased oiliness, as noted in the feedback you received. The percentage of Light Cream Maker also seems low for a cream texture.

Suggestions for Your Formula:

Reduce Heavy Moisturizers/Oils: To achieve a lighter texture and avoid excess oiliness, consider reducing or removing the Sea Kelp Extract, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Rose Hip Oil, and Squalane.
Enhance Oil Control and Acne Marks: Your formula already contains Vitamin B3 and Green Tea Extract, which are great for these concerns. You could further enhance this by adding ingredients known for oil control like Zinc PCA, Licorice Extract, MSM, or L-Carnitine. For post-acne marks, Panthenol (Vitamin B5) is helpful for skin recovery, and other whitening agents such as Alpha-Arbutin or Tranexamic Acid can target pigmentation.
Anti-Aging: Kinetin is a good choice. Incorporating peptides can provide anti-aging benefits without adding oiliness. Examples include Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, or Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12.
Texture: Adjust the percentage of Light Cream Maker to achieve your desired light cream consistency and ensure formula stability.

Regarding AA2G (Ascorbyl Glucoside):

Yes, Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of Vitamin C that can be used during the day. Unlike L-Ascorbic Acid, it does not have a low pH that might cause irritation for sensitive skin, making it suitable for daytime application.

By adjusting the formula to be lighter and incorporating ingredients specifically for oil control and marks, you can create a cream better suited for your combination/oily skin type while still addressing your anti-aging and other concerns.