Formulating a Lightweight Emulsion (Serum/Liquid Lotion Texture)

ถามโดย: cram-croo เมื่อ: June 02, 2014 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have a product with the following ingredient list and a liquid milk-like texture:

Ingredient List:

  • WATER
  • BUTYLENE GLYCOL
  • HYDROGENATED POLY (C6-14 OLEFIN)
  • OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE
  • Water
  • Glycerin
  • Hydrogenated Poly (C6-12 Olefin)
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  • PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
  • Behenyl Alcohol
  • Carbomer
  • Dimethicone
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Glyceryl Stearate
  • Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
  • Methylparaben
  • PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate
  • Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
  • Propylparaben
  • Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Stearyl Alcohol
  • Triethanolamine

The texture is a thin, liquid milk.

I would like to know how to achieve this kind of lightweight, liquid milk texture, similar to a serum or liquid lotion, using the appropriate ingredients and techniques. Specifically, I'm wondering if using a base like "Light Cream, Satin moose" at 0.5% would contribute to this texture.

คำตอบ

Creating a Lightweight Emulsion (Serum/Liquid Lotion Texture)

To achieve a lightweight emulsion with a texture similar to a serum or liquid lotion, which is thicker than water but more fluid than a typical lotion, it requires a careful balance of several key ingredient types in the formula. The ingredient list you provided is a good example of the components typically found in such an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion.

The desired texture is not achieved by one or two ingredients alone, but by the interaction and proportion of the entire formula. Here are the main categories of ingredients and how they contribute to the texture:

  • Emulsifiers: These are crucial for binding the water and oil phases together to create a stable emulsion. For a lightweight O/W emulsion, you need emulsifiers that help create a fine dispersion of oil droplets in the water phase. Examples include Ceteareth-10 or Emulsifying Wax 1000.

  • Oils and Emollients: These provide the oil phase, offering moisture and a smooth feel. To keep the texture lightweight, it's best to use light, non-greasy oils or esters. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and Fractionated Coconut Oil are good examples of lightweight emollients that absorb quickly.

  • Thickeners and Stabilizers: These ingredients increase the viscosity of the formula and help stabilize the emulsion, preventing separation. Different types contribute differently:

    • Carbomers (like Carbomer 940 or Carbomer U21) are polymers that thicken the water phase, creating a gel-like network when neutralized with an alkali. This is essential for the "thicker than water" feel.
    • Fatty alcohols like Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, or Cetearyl Alcohol are often used as co-emulsifiers and thickeners in the oil phase. They add body and stability to the emulsion, contributing to the lotion-like consistency (though used at lower levels for a lighter texture).
  • Humectants: Ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid (various molecular weights such as Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) or Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule)) attract and hold moisture, hydrating the skin. They can also contribute slightly to the viscosity of the water phase.

Regarding your question about using "Light Cream, Satin moose" at 0.5%, using such a low percentage of a single ingredient or base is generally not enough to define the overall texture of a complex emulsion. The final texture is a result of the entire formulation, including the ratio of water to oil, the specific emulsifier system used, and the type and concentration of thickeners and stabilizers.

To create a liquid milk-like emulsion that pours easily but feels substantial, you would typically use a higher percentage of the water phase, a moderate amount of lightweight oils, an appropriate O/W emulsifier system, and a low to moderate concentration of thickeners (like Carbomer in the water phase and potentially a small amount of fatty alcohol in the oil phase) to achieve the desired viscosity without becoming too thick like a cream.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
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Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule, 8-20K Daltons)
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Fractionated Coconut Oil
Fractionated Coconut Oil
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Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
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Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
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Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™, France)
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Ceteareth-10
Ceteareth-10
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Stearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
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Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (e.q. Myritol 318)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (e.q. Myritol 318)
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Emulsifying Wax 1000 (e.q. Emulgade 1000 NI)
Emulsifying Wax 1000 (e.q. Emulgade 1000 NI)
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