Formulating a Lightweight Serum for Uneven Skin Tone with Niacinamide and Vitamin C
คำถาม
I am trying to formulate a lightweight, non-sticky serum to even out skin tone using ingredients including Niacinamide and Vitamin C.
- Will using
Ethoxydiglycolas a carrier instead ofPropylene Glycolresult in a lighter texture with lower viscosity? - What is the correct mixing order and ratio for the ingredients in this type of serum?
- I've read that using
NiacinamidewithL-Ascorbic Acidcan produceNiacin, which is toxic to the skin. Can I apply a serum containingNiacinamidefollowed by a cream containingL-Ascorbic Acid?
คำตอบ
Serum Formulation Advice for Uneven Skin Tone
Regarding your questions about formulating a light, non-sticky serum for uneven skin tone using ingredients like Niacinamide and Vitamin C:
Formula vs. Ingredients: As previously mentioned, the list you have provided consists of ingredients, not a complete formula. To provide specific guidance on mixing order and ratios, you would need to provide a full formula including the percentage of each ingredient you plan to use. The mixing order and process depend heavily on the solubility and compatibility of all components in your specific formula.
Ethoxydiglycol vs. Propylene Glycol as Carrier: Yes, using Ethoxydiglycol as a carrier instead of Propylene Glycol can generally help achieve a lighter texture with less tackiness or viscosity. Ethoxydiglycol is known for its ability to enhance the penetration of active ingredients and provides a less viscous feel compared to Propylene Glycol in many formulations. Propylene Glycol is a good solvent and humectant, but can sometimes feel slightly heavier.
Mixing Order and Ratios: As stated in point 1, precise instructions require a full formula. However, general principles involve dissolving water-soluble ingredients (like Niacinamide) in the water phase and oil-soluble ingredients (if any) in the oil phase. Actives like L-Ascorbic Acid are often added in the final step at lower temperatures and require careful pH adjustment (typically acidic, between 2.0-4.0, but FDA requires >= 3.5 for leave-on products) for stability and efficacy. Niacinamide is more stable at a higher pH (3-8, optimally 4.0-7.0).
Sequential Application of Niacinamide and L-Ascorbic Acid: The concern about Niacin formation when Niacinamide and L-Ascorbic Acid are mixed is primarily relevant when they are formulated together in the same product, especially at certain pH levels and storage conditions. Applying a serum containing Niacinamide followed by a cream containing L-Ascorbic Acid (or vice versa) is generally considered safe and effective. The potential reaction is significantly minimized when the ingredients are in separate products applied sequentially to the skin.
Vitamin C Application Frequency: While some studies use twice-daily application of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), applying a product with an effective concentration once daily can still provide significant benefits. Using your Niacinamide serum in the morning and your L-Ascorbic Acid cream at night is a perfectly valid and often recommended approach. This routine can help simplify layering and ensure you receive the benefits of both ingredients without potential interaction concerns within a single product. Consistency is key for achieving results with skin tone improvement.
Ingredient Benefits:
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Known for its ability to reduce hyperpigmentation (redness and dark spots), strengthen the skin barrier, reduce oiliness, and improve skin texture and fine lines. High-purity grades like Safe-B3™ and Extreme-B3™ are designed to minimize flushing or irritation.
- L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): A potent antioxidant that helps brighten skin tone, reduce dark spots, stimulate collagen production, and protect against environmental damage. It is most effective at a low pH but is also less stable in water-based formulas compared to some Vitamin C derivatives.
- Ethoxydiglycol: Acts as a solvent and carrier, helping to dissolve ingredients and enhance their penetration into the skin, often contributing to a lighter feel.
- Propylene Glycol: Functions as a solvent, humectant (helps retain moisture), and can improve the texture and stability of formulations.
To get more specific formulation advice, please provide your complete formula with percentages.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Propylene Glycol (USP)