Formulating a Liquid Highlighter with Glow and Long-lasting Adhesion

Question

How can I formulate a liquid highlighter that provides a glow, has good adhesion and longevity on the skin, and a thick liquid texture? What ingredients should I use for the different phases and functions, such as the water/emulsifier phase, film formers/silicones/wax for adhesion, highlighting powders/colors, oil absorption/texture improvement, and preservation?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Formula Analysis for Liquid Highlighter

Thank you for providing the ingredient list and details for the liquid highlighter. Based on the formula you provided and the staff's analysis, here is a breakdown and a suggested starting formula:

The staff analyzed the formula and divided it into three main functional parts:

Water and Emulsifiers: To combine the water, oil, and silicone phases. The staff suggests using Water and Milk Lotion Maker as the primary emulsifier.
Film Formers, Silicones, and Wax: To help the pigments adhere to the skin and provide texture and longevity. The staff suggests Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor), Silicone Film (Trimethylsiloxysilicate Powder), and Polyethylene Wax.
Highlighting Powders and Colors: The pigments that provide the glow and color. The original formula lists Mica, Bismuth Oxychloride, Iron Oxides, and Titanium Dioxide. The staff's suggested formula focuses on Bismuth Oxychloride, Iron Oxides, and Titanium Dioxide.
Oil Absorption/Texture: The original formula includes Polymethyl methacrylate. The staff suggests SelectSorb (Polymethyl methacrylate) to help absorb oil and improve skin feel.
Preservative: To prevent microbial growth. The staff suggests Mild Preserved Eco.

Based on this analysis, the staff proposed the following sample formula as a starting point. Please note that this is a suggestion, and you may need to adjust the percentages to achieve the desired texture and effect similar to the original product.

Suggested Sample Formula:

Water: Remaining percentage to 100%
Milk Lotion Maker: 4%
Dimethicone (Light, Low-Odor): 20%
Silicone Film (Trimethylsiloxysilicate Powder): 10% (Adjust if needed for adhesion/longevity)
Polyethylene Wax: 10% (Adjust if needed for thickness)
Bismuth Oxychloride: 10%-15% (Adjust for desired glow)
Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499): Adjust color blend to match skin tone
Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891): 3-6% (Adjust for desired brightness, blend with skin tone)
SelectSorb (Polymethyl methacrylate): 3%
Mild Preserved Eco: 1%

The staff mentioned that they do not have direct experience with this specific type of formula but provided this suggestion based on the ingredient list analysis. You will likely need to experiment with the ratios, especially for the film formers, wax, and powders, to achieve the desired texture (thick liquid) and translucent, glowing finish.