Formulating a Long-Lasting, Waterproof, Matte Eyebrow Product with Instant Color and Tint

Thank you for your question and for sharing your formulation experience. It sounds like you're aiming for a sophisticated eyebrow product that offers both immediate color payoff and a semi-permanent tint, along with long-lasting, waterproof, and matte properties.

Based on your description and the previous conversation with the staff, here's an analysis of the challenges you faced and guidance on formulating such a product:

Understanding the Two Color Components

Your goal involves two different mechanisms for delivering color:

1. Immediate Color: This comes from pigments (like Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide) that deposit color on the skin's surface right away. This is what you see as soon as you apply the product.
2. Long-Lasting Tint: This is achieved by ingredients like DHA (Dihydroxyacetone) and EasyTan™ (Erythrulose). These react with amino acids in the skin's upper layer to create a color change that lasts for several days. This color develops over a few hours and is not washed away easily.

Why the Peel-Off Formula Might Not Have Worked

Your initial formula included ingredients common in peel-off masks or films (like PVP and potentially the Oil Film). While these create a nice film that can be removed, the pigments providing the immediate color were likely embedded in this film. When you peeled it off, the pigments were removed along with the film, leaving little color behind. Additionally, for DHA and EasyTan™ to work effectively, they need sufficient contact time with the skin to be absorbed and react. If the film was removed too quickly, the tint wouldn't have had enough time to develop.

The Role of Water and Penetration Enhancers

The staff correctly pointed out that DHA needs to be dissolved in water to be effective. Your experiment using Silicone Gel instead of Aloe Vera Gel (which is water-based) would have prevented the DHA from dissolving and reacting with the skin, explaining why the tint did not develop.

The staff also clarified the difference between Methyl Gluceth-20 and Reservoir-Tech. While Methyl Gluceth-20 is primarily a humectant (attracts and holds moisture), Reservoir-Tech is designed to help active ingredients, like DHA and EasyTan™, penetrate the skin and stay there longer, improving the tint's effectiveness and longevity.

Formulating for Both Immediate Color and Long-Lasting Tint

To achieve both immediate color and a long-lasting tint in a waterproof, matte formula, you need to carefully combine ingredients that serve these different functions:

• For the Tint: Ensure DHA and EasyTan™ are fully dissolved in the water phase of your formula. Include humectants (like Butylene Glycol and Ethoxydiglycol) and consider using Reservoir-Tech to enhance penetration and tint longevity.
• For Immediate Color & Matte Finish: Incorporate cosmetic grade pigments like Iron Oxides (Black, Red, Yellow, Brown) and potentially Titanium Dioxide. Using EasyMix™ versions of these pigments can help ensure smooth dispersion and even color application. Ingredients like Mica Powder can contribute to a matte finish.
• For Waterproof & Long-Lasting Properties: Include film formers (like PVP or Easy Hair Styler (8 Hr.)) and waxes (like Microcrystalline Wax and Beeswax) along with water-resistant oils/silicones (like Isododecane). An appropriate emulsifier (like Polysorbate 80 or Butter Cream Maker™) will be needed to create a stable formula combining water and oil/silicone phases.

Mixing Considerations

Since DHA and EasyTan™ are sensitive to heat, you cannot heat the entire formula to high temperatures required to melt waxes and emulsify oils. A suitable method would involve preparing the water phase containing DHA, EasyTan™, humectants, and water-soluble film formers separately, ideally at room temperature or with minimal warming (below 40°C). The oil/wax phase would be heated to melt the waxes and disperse pigments. After forming the emulsion and cooling it down significantly (below 40°C), the heat-sensitive water phase containing DHA/EasyTan™ can be added and mixed thoroughly.

Achieving the Desired Color

Yes, you can absolutely mix pigments to achieve your desired eyebrow color. Iron Oxides are the standard pigments for this purpose. By blending Black, Red, Yellow, and Brown Iron Oxides, you can create a wide range of natural-looking brown and black shades suitable for eyebrows. Titanium Dioxide can be added in small amounts to lighten shades or increase opacity if needed. Using EasyMix™ pigments will make the dispersion process much easier, resulting in a smooth, even color application.

In summary, creating a product with both immediate color and a long-lasting tint requires a formulation approach that ensures the DHA/EasyTan™ can effectively penetrate the skin while pigments provide instant color and the overall formula offers long-lasting, waterproof, and matte wear. It is achievable with careful selection of ingredients and processing methods.