Formulating a Matte but Moisturizing Lipstick with Natural Ingredients
Question
Hello,
I want to make a lipstick stick that has a matte but moisturizing texture, can be reapplied during the day, and has good color payoff. The lipstick I personally like to use contains mango seed butter. I would like to ask what ingredients are needed and approximately what percentage of each should be used? (I prefer mostly natural ingredients). Please advise.
Thank you very much.
Answer
Creating a Matte but Moisturizing Lipstick
To create a lipstick that is matte yet moisturizing, can be reapplied during the day, and has good color payoff, especially with a preference for natural ingredients like mango seed butter, you need to balance waxes, butters, oils, and colorants.
Here is a sample formula structure using natural ingredients. Please note that these percentages are approximate starting points and will require testing and adjustment to achieve your desired texture and performance.
Sample Natural Lipstick Formula
- Waxes (approx. 10-20%): Provide structure, hardness, and contribute to the matte finish. A higher percentage results in a firmer, more matte stick. Example: Sunflower Wax.
- Butters (approx. 30-50%): Offer emollience, moisture, and a smooth feel. A combination of butters can provide different textures and benefits. Examples: Mango Butter, Kokum Butter, Golden Shea Butter.
- Oils (approx. 15-30%): Add slip, moisture, and help disperse pigments. Examples: Raspberry Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Castor Oil.
- Colorants (approx. 5-15%): Pigments or micas provide the color. The amount needed depends on the desired color intensity and the specific colorant used.
- Antioxidant (approx. 0.5-1%): Helps prevent oils from going rancid. Example: Vitamin E.
Example Percentage Breakdown:
- Sunflower Wax: 15%
- Mango Butter: 20%
- Kokum Butter: 15%
- Golden Shea Butter: 10%
- Raspberry Seed Oil: 30%
- Colorants (Pigments/Micas): 9.5% (Adjust as needed)
- Vitamin E: 0.5%
Total: 100%
Role of Key Ingredients:
- Mango Butter: As you like this ingredient, it provides good moisturizing properties and a pleasant texture.
- Sunflower Wax: A natural wax with a relatively high melting point, helping to give the lipstick structure and a matte appearance.
- Kokum Butter: Known for its harder texture and non-greasy feel, which can help contribute to the matte finish while still providing emollience.
- Golden Shea Butter: Highly moisturizing and nourishing, helps to keep the lips feeling comfortable despite the matte finish.
- Raspberry Seed Oil: A natural oil rich in fatty acids and antioxidants, providing moisture and skin benefits.
Important Considerations:
- Melting and Mixing: Waxes and butters will need to be melted together with the oils before adding colorants.
- Colorant Dispersion: Ensure pigments are well dispersed in the oil phase to avoid a grainy texture and ensure even color payoff.
- Testing: Small batch testing is crucial to adjust the percentages of wax, butters, and oils to get the exact matte feel, moisture level, and hardness you desire.
- Natural Variation: Natural ingredients can vary slightly from batch to batch, which might affect the final product consistency.
This formula provides a good starting point for a natural, matte, and moisturizing lipstick. Remember to experiment with the percentages to find your perfect balance.
Related Products Mentioned
Mango Butter (Deodorized)
Sunflower Wax
Kokum Butter (Refined)