Formulating a Matte, Long-lasting, Waterproof W/O Foundation

Hello!

I understand that the sample formula you received did not meet your expectations regarding lightness, coverage, and issues with separation/caking. Creating a matte, long-lasting, waterproof foundation with medium-to-high coverage like you desire (similar to Revlon but not as thick) in a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion format is quite complex and requires a suitable combination and balance of ingredients.

Based on the ingredients of the product you referenced and the ingredients available in the shop, I can suggest a revised formula that has a better chance of achieving the desired texture, coverage, and stability. This formula focuses on ingredients that help create a film, absorb oil, and disperse pigments effectively in a W/O system.

This suggested formula is inspired by the ingredients in the product you like, using ingredients with similar properties available from MySkinRecipes.

Suggested Formula (Revised):

Phase A (Oil/Silicone Phase)

• Cyclomethicone: 15%
• LipidSoft CC (or LipidSoft Lite): 5%
• Silicone Film (Trimethylsiloxysilicate): 5%
• Hectorite Oil Gel (DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE + Propylene Carbonate): 2%

Phase B (Water Phase)

• Water: 36.7%
• Butylene Glycol: 3%
• Xanthan Gum: 0.3%

Phase C (Emulsifier/Stabilizer Phase)

• Water-in-Oil EZ: 4%
• Satin Cream Maker: 2%

Phase D (Powders/Pigments Phase)

• Titanium Dioxide EasyDisperse (or EasyMix 200nm): 12%
• Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix: 3%
• Silk Mica Powder (or Silk Sericite Powder): 5%
• Matte Silica (or Polymethylsilsesquioxane): 3%
• BB Micro Silk (Silica): 3%

Phase E (Preservative Phase)

• Mild Preserved Eco: 1%

Total: 100%

Mixing Procedure:

1. Prepare Phase A: In a container, combine Cyclomethicone, LipidSoft CC, Silicone Film, and Hectorite Oil Gel. Mix thoroughly, ideally with a high-shear mixer, until the Hectorite is fully dispersed and the mixture is smooth.
2. Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, combine Water and Butylene Glycol. Slowly add Xanthan Gum while mixing continuously with high shear until the gum is fully hydrated and a smooth gel forms.
3. Prepare Phase C: In a separate container, combine Water-in-Oil EZ and Satin Cream Maker. Add this mixture to Phase A and mix well.
4. Slowly add Phase B (Water Phase) to the combined Phase A+C (Oil Phase) in small increments while mixing with moderate to high shear. Continue mixing until a stable emulsion is formed.
5. Prepare Phase D: In a separate container, combine all powders and pigments (Titanium Dioxide, Beige Iron Oxides, Silk Mica, Matte Silica, BB Micro Silk). Mix these powders together thoroughly. (It is recommended to grind or mill the pigments/powders before adding to ensure smooth dispersion).
6. Gradually add the powder mixture (Phase D) to the emulsion (from step 4) while mixing with high shear. Continue mixing until all powders are fully dispersed and the color is uniform throughout the cream.
7. Add Mild Preserved Eco (Phase E) to the foundation and mix until fully incorporated.
8. Perform a final check of the texture, color, and homogeneity.

This formula includes an increased amount of pigments (Titanium Dioxide) and other powders that help with coverage and matte finish, as well as a film former (Silicone Film) for long wear. Importantly, it includes Hectorite Oil Gel, which is an oil-phase suspending agent that helps prevent pigment settling and improves the stability of the foundation, reducing the chance of separation or caking.

Formulating cosmetics requires experimentation and adjustment to achieve the perfect result. This formula is a starting point based on the information you provided.

I hope this formula helps you get closer to the foundation you are looking for!