Formulating a Matte, Oil-Controlling Cream for Very Oily Skin

Question

I want to produce a cream for personal use. My facial skin is fundamentally very oily due to genetics (Extremely Oily Skin) and already has sufficient moisture, plus I sweat a lot on my face. Therefore, I need a cream with a matte look that helps [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/59-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7:10phuo2j]control oil[/url:10phuo2j] to the maximum and helps prevent the face from becoming dull.

Here is an example ingredient list of a product I used before, which did not specify proportions and is now discontinued:

Water, Palmitic & Stearic Acid, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:10phuo2j]Niacinamide[/url:10phuo2j], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:10phuo2j]Glycerin[/url:10phuo2j], Isopropyl Myristate, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/523-octyl-methoxycinnamate-om-cinnamate.html:10phuo2j]ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE[/url:10phuo2j], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/search?search_query=titanium+dioxide&orderby=position&orderway=desc:10phuo2j]Titanium Dioxide[/url:10phuo2j] & Aluminium Hydroxide & Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Methicone, [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/search?search_query=titanium+dioxide&orderby=position&orderway=desc:10phuo2j]Titanium Dioxide[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/spf-sunscreen/725-zinc-oxide-liquid-%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%81%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%99.html:10phuo2j]Zinc Oxide[/url:10phuo2j], Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/173-cetyl-alcohol-vegetable.html:10phuo2j]Cetyl Alcohol[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1575-magnesium-ascorbyl-phosphate.html:10phuo2j]Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/65-vitamin-e-tocopheryl-acetate-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B5.html:10phuo2j]Tocopheryl Acetate[/url:10phuo2j], Methyl Paraben, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:10phuo2j]Allantoin[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/155-phenoxyethanol-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5paraben.html:10phuo2j]Phenoxyethanol[/url:10phuo2j], Propyl Paraben, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:10phuo2j]Disodium EDTA[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%99/643-vitamin-b6-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B5-6.html:10phuo2j]Pyridoxine Hydrochloride[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/make-up-bb-cream/285-kaolin-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99.html:10phuo2j]Kaolin[/url:10phuo2j], BHT, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/162-witch-hazel-distilled-alcohol-free-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%A5-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C.html:10phuo2j]Hamamelis Virginiana[/url:10phuo2j] (With Hazel) Extract, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/linalool-%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%8A%E0%B8%A2/2685-linalool.html:10phuo2j]Linalool[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/citrus-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A7-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2486-d-limonene.html:10phuo2j]Limonene[/url:10phuo2j], Alpha-Isomethylionone.

I intend to add [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A9%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/212-methylsulfonylmethane-msm-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99.html:10phuo2j]Pure MSM™[/url:10phuo2j] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A9%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/212-methylsulfonylmethane-msm-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9F%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99.html:10phuo2j]Methylsulfonylmethane[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A9%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/252-zinc-pca-%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD.html:10phuo2j]Zinc PCA[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/1589-capryloyl-glycine.html:10phuo2j]Sebum-Reg™ (Capryloyl Glycine)[/url:10phuo2j], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/make-up-bb-cream/518-silica-%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7.html:10phuo2j]Matte Silica[/url:10phuo2j] XL) and also remove moisturizing ingredients from the mentioned formula.

Therefore, I would like to request your team to analyze and adjust the formula. Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Proposed Matte Finish Cream Formula Concept

Your goal is a cream that provides a matte look, controls oil, and prevents dullness, suitable for very oily and sweaty skin. To achieve this, we will focus on incorporating powerful oil-absorbing and sebum-regulating ingredients while minimizing those that add excess moisture or a heavy feel.

Key Ingredients for Oil Control and Matte Finish

We will leverage the ingredients you specifically requested, as they are excellent for addressing oiliness and providing a matte finish:

Zinc PCA: Highly effective in reducing sebum production and has the added benefit of helping with acne and stimulating collagen.
Sebum-Reg™ (Capryloyl Glycine): This ingredient is specifically designed to regulate sebum production.
Matte Silica XL: A specialized silica powder with a porous structure that excels at absorbing excess oil on the skin's surface, providing an immediate and lasting matte effect.
Kaolin: A natural clay that is well-known for its oil-absorbing properties, contributing to the matte finish.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): A versatile ingredient that helps regulate sebum, minimize pores, and improve skin tone, addressing both oiliness and dullness.
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (Vitamin B6): Can help balance skin oiliness and tighten pores, especially beneficial for very oily skin.
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract: Acts as an astringent, helping to tighten pores and reduce excess surface oil.

Ingredients for Anti-Dullness and Protection

To combat dullness and protect the skin, we should include:

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP): A stable form of Vitamin C that brightens skin tone and provides antioxidant protection, helping to prevent dullness caused by environmental factors.
Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide: These mineral sunscreens provide broad-spectrum UV protection, which is crucial for preventing sun-induced dullness and damage. They also contribute to the matte finish and can offer some oil absorption. Chemical sunscreens like ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE and Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane can also be included for comprehensive UV protection, depending on the desired SPF level and formulation aesthetics.

Base Ingredients and Texture Modifiers

Certain base ingredients from your original list can be retained but potentially adjusted in concentration to achieve the desired matte texture:

Water: The primary base for the cream.
Methicone or other light silicones (like Dimethicone): Can provide a smooth, non-greasy feel and help with the application of powders like silica and mineral sunscreens. Using lighter viscosity silicones is preferable for an oily skin product.
Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid: These fatty acids are used as thickeners and emulsifiers. Their concentration may need to be carefully controlled, or alternative emulsifiers considered, to avoid a heavy or occlusive feel.
Cetyl Alcohol: Another fatty alcohol used as a thickener and emollient. Similar to the fatty acids, its usage level should be minimized or potentially replaced with lighter alternatives if a very dry, matte feel is paramount.
Potassium Hydroxide: Used for pH adjustment, necessary for formula stability.
Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that helps stabilize the formula by binding to metal ions.
BHT: An antioxidant to help preserve the oils in the formula.
Preservatives (e.g., Phenoxyethanol, Methyl Paraben, Propyl Paraben): Essential for preventing microbial growth and ensuring product safety and shelf life. A suitable broad-spectrum preservative system is necessary.

Ingredients to Minimize or Remove

As requested, ingredients that primarily provide heavy moisturization should be reduced or removed:

Glycerin: A highly effective humectant, but can feel sticky or heavy on very oily skin, especially in humid conditions. Removing it aligns with your goal of reducing moisture.
Isopropyl Myristate: An emollient that can sometimes feel oily or contribute to clogged pores in acne-prone individuals. Lighter emollients or silicones would be better suited for an oily skin product.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): While an antioxidant, it is oil-soluble and can add to the emollient feel. If antioxidant protection is needed, it could potentially be included at a very low concentration or a water-soluble antioxidant could be considered.
Linalool, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethylionone: These are fragrance components. If you prefer a fragrance-free product, they should be omitted.

Formulation Approach

The formulation should aim for an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion or potentially a water-in-silicone (W/Si) emulsion for a more powdery, matte feel. The oil phase should be minimal and consist of very light, non-greasy emollients or silicones. The water phase will contain the water-soluble active ingredients like Niacinamide, Zinc PCA, Sebum-Reg, Vitamin B6, Witch Hazel, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pure MSM, and Disodium EDTA. The oil-absorbing powders (Matte Silica XL, Kaolin, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide) should be properly dispersed in the appropriate phase (often the oil or silicone phase, or added at the end) to ensure a smooth texture and effective oil control without feeling gritty or heavy.

Developing the final formula requires careful selection of emulsifiers and texture modifiers, as well as optimization of ingredient concentrations through testing to achieve the desired matte finish, oil control, stability, and skin feel.