Formulating a Multi-Benefit Cream for Acne, Oil Control, Brightening, and Hydration

Asked by: pantawan_kantiyatep On: October 16, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a cream with multiple goals: reducing acne, controlling oiliness, brightening skin, and providing hydration. I have several questions regarding ingredient selection and formulation:

  1. Regarding the first part of my formula, there are two ingredients listed at position 4, Zinc PCA and Azelaic Acid. I understand these two cannot be used together and I must choose one. Based on my goals, which one should I choose?
  2. Can I add Double Hyaluron Liquid to this cream formulation, or should I use it as a separate product? My aim is to have the cream also provide moisture.
  3. In the first part of my formula, at position 3, can I add N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) to enhance the effectiveness of Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)? I understand that if used together, the amount of Vitamin B3 should be reduced. However, since the cream's purpose includes reducing acne/oil, brightening, and moisturizing, I was considering reducing the amount of N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) instead. Or should I remove N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) entirely?
  4. Can the ingredients from the second part of my formula be combined with the first part to create a single cream that addresses acne, oiliness, brightening, and hydration? Or should they be formulated and applied separately?
  5. Do you have any other recommendations for improving the formula? Ideally, I would prefer not to remove any ingredients.

Answer

Based on your formula and goals (reduce acne/oil, brighten skin, hydrate), and considering the previous staff advice:

  1. N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): The staff confirmed these work synergistically for brightening and suggested using them together, ideally each in the 3-5% range for best results. Your current formula has Niacinamide at 5% (2.5g in 50g) and NAG at 2% (1g in 50g). To potentially enhance the brightening effect further, you could consider increasing the N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine towards the 3-5% range (e.g., increasing from 1g to 1.5g or 2.5g in your 50g formula), aligning with the staff's recommendation for optimal synergy.
  2. Licorice Extract: At 0.5% (0.25g in 50g), it provides some soothing and brightening benefits. If you want to boost these effects slightly, you could consider a small increase (e.g., to 0.5g, making it 1% of the formula), although this is optional and depends on your desired intensity.
  3. Double Hyaluron Liquid: As the staff mentioned, the amount of moisturizer depends on your skin's specific needs. If your skin feels oily but also dehydrated, or if the other active ingredients prove slightly drying, you might find increasing the Double Hyaluron Liquid beneficial for added hydration. Start by testing the current amount and see how your skin feels. If more hydration is needed and the texture remains acceptable, you could try a slight increase (e.g., from 1g to 1.5g or 2g).
  4. Potent Actives (Azelaic Acid, Activated Resorcinol): Your formula includes Azelaic Acid at 10% and Activated Resorcinol at 2%. These are powerful ingredients for treating acne, oiliness, and pigmentation. While you prefer not to decrease ingredients, it's important to be aware that using multiple potent actives at these concentrations increases the potential for skin irritation, redness, or peeling, especially when first starting use. Since you want to keep them, ensure you perform a patch test before applying the formula to your face. Monitor your skin's response closely and reduce frequency of use if irritation occurs. The combination of Azelaic Acid and Activated Resorcinol specifically targets brightening and acne marks effectively.
  5. Zinc PCA and Azelaic Acid: You initially asked about choosing between these two. As the staff explained, they have different primary functions (Zinc PCA for oil/collagen, Azelaic Acid for exfoliation/brightening/acne). Using both allows you to target both oil/acne control (Zinc PCA) and acne treatment/brightening/mild exfoliation (Azelaic Acid) simultaneously, fitting your multi-goal approach, assuming the specific raw materials you are using are compatible in formulation.
  6. Combining Part 1 and Part 2: As the staff advised, combining them is possible but pay close attention to the final texture. You may need to adjust the amount of Light Cream Maker (or Pro Polymer if making a gel) based on the total volume and the presence of electrolytes in your formula to achieve your desired consistency without it being too heavy or sticky. Testing is key here.

In summary, potential areas to consider increasing, if you wish to enhance specific effects without decreasing others, are N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (for synergy with B3) and potentially Licorice Extract (for added soothing/brightening) or Double Hyaluron Liquid (if more hydration is needed). Always test the final formulation on a small area of skin first to check for texture and irritation before applying it widely.

Tags

Acne Treatment Cream Formulation Adjustment Oil Control Skin Brightening