Formulating a Multi-Benefit Face Cream (Melasma, Brightening, Anti-Aging, Moisturizing)
Question
I am interested in making a cream with the properties of treating melasma, brightening the face, moisturizing the skin, and [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/22-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2:3jbsqe2u]reducing wrinkles[/url:3jbsqe2u] for personal trial use. The initial ingredients I would like to include in the cream are: multisal tm multilayer, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/147-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%81-kojic-acid-dipalmitate.html:3jbsqe2u]Kojic Acid[/url:3jbsqe2u], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/404-double-hyaluron-liquid.html:3jbsqe2u]Hyaluronic Acid[/url:3jbsqe2u], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:3jbsqe2u]Glycerin[/url:3jbsqe2u], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/117-shea-butter-certified-organic-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84.html:3jbsqe2u]shea butter[/url:3jbsqe2u], [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/87-jojoba-oil-golden-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%99.html:3jbsqe2u]Jojoba Oil[/url:3jbsqe2u], [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/search?search_query=dimethicone&orderby=position&orderway=desc:3jbsqe2u]Dimethicone[/url:3jbsqe2u], and [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/155-phenoxyethanol-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5paraben.html:3jbsqe2u]Phenoxyethanol[/url:3jbsqe2u]. I would like to receive further recommendations on any additional ingredients that should be used. Thank you.
Answer
Recommended Additional Ingredients
Your chosen ingredients already provide several benefits:
- Moisturizing: Hyaluronic Acid (various molecular weights provide hydration at different levels), Glycerin (humectant), Shea Butter and Jojoba Oil (emollients and skin barrier support).
- Brightening/Anti-Melasma: Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is a known ingredient for reducing melanin production.
- Skin Feel: Dimethicone provides a smooth texture.
- Preservation: Phenoxyethanol helps preserve the product.
To enhance the anti-melasma, brightening, and anti-wrinkle properties, and to create a stable cream texture, here are some recommendations for additional ingredients:
For Enhanced Anti-Melasma and Brightening
- Alpha Arbutin: This is a highly effective skin brightener that works by inhibiting melanin production. It is considered safer than hydroquinone and works well in combination with Kojic Acid Dipalmitate.
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that helps reduce hyperpigmentation, improve skin tone, strengthen the skin barrier, and can also help with oiliness and redness. It complements Kojic Acid Dipalmitate and Alpha Arbutin for a more comprehensive brightening effect.
For Enhanced Anti-Wrinkle
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000): This peptide blend is known to stimulate collagen synthesis, which helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improves skin elasticity.
For Cream Structure
- Cream Maker (Emulsifier): To combine the water-soluble ingredients (like Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, Phenoxyethanol) with the oil-soluble ingredients (Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil, Dimethicone), you will need an emulsifier or cream maker. This is essential to create a stable cream texture. Examples include Sucrose Cream Maker or Soft Cream Maker.
- Thickener/Stabilizer: Depending on the desired consistency of your cream, you may also need a thickener to achieve the right viscosity and stability. CreamThick is an example of a thickener.
Important Considerations:
- Compatibility and pH: When combining multiple active ingredients, it's crucial to consider their compatibility and the optimal pH range for the final product to ensure stability and effectiveness. For example, Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is stable in a pH range of 3-9, while Niacinamide is generally stable in a pH range of 3-8. Ensure your final formulation's pH is suitable for all active ingredients.
- Mixing Method: Follow the recommended mixing instructions for each ingredient, especially for dissolving powders and incorporating oil-soluble components.
- Preservation: While Phenoxyethanol is included, for a broad spectrum of protection against bacteria and fungi, you might consider using a preservative blend or ensuring the concentration of Phenoxyethanol is adequate for your specific formula and storage conditions.
- Usage Rates: Adhere to the recommended usage rates for each ingredient to ensure safety and efficacy.
By adding Alpha Arbutin, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), and Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000) along with a suitable cream maker and potentially a thickener, you can create a comprehensive cream targeting melasma, dullness, lack of moisture, and wrinkles.
Related Products Mentioned
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Kojic Acid Dipalmitate
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
Soft Cream Maker™