Formulating a Non-Peel-Off Face Mask with Botanical Extracts

Asked by: himyangel On: June 21, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to create a face mask that is not a peel-off mask, but rather a cream or gel-cream type that remains on the skin (like a sleeping mask or wash-off mask).

Based on the suggestion to use AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum) at 1.5-2.0% instead of Polyvinylpyrrolidone K90 (PVP-K90) for this type of mask, I would like to incorporate the following botanical extracts into the formula:

  • Aloe Vera Extract
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
  • WhiteCumin™ 2x (Turmeric Extract)
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment
  • Witch Hazel (Distillate)

Could you please advise on the recommended usage rates for each of these extracts in this non-peel-off mask formulation and any specific instructions for incorporating them?

Answer

Based on your goal to create a face mask cream that is not peeled off, Polyvinylpyrrolidone K90 (PVP-K90) is generally not the most suitable ingredient for creating the primary texture. PVP-K90 is a film-former that is typically used at higher concentrations (often 5-15% or more) in peel-off mask formulations to create the film that is removed from the skin. While it can act as a thickener, its film-forming property is its main characteristic at effective concentrations for masks.

For a cream or gel-cream mask that remains on the skin (like a sleeping mask or wash-off mask), you would typically use different types of thickeners or gelling agents. The staff's recommendation of using AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum) at 1.5-2.0% is appropriate for creating a gel or gel-cream texture suitable for this type of mask. AnyGel™ is a water gelling agent known for its non-greasy feel and good resistance to electrolytes, which is beneficial when incorporating various extracts.

For the botanical extracts you mentioned, here are the typical recommended usage rates:

  • Aloe Vera Extract: 1-10% (mix in water phase)
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): 0.1-2% (recommended 1%) (mix in final step, avoid heat, pH 4-6.5)
  • WhiteCumin™ 2x (Turmeric Extract): 1-4% (recommended 2.5-3.0%) (mix in water phase)
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment: 0.5-5% (recommended 2-3%) (mix in final step below 40°C, pH 3.5-7)
  • Witch Hazel (Distillate): 10-100% (mix in final step below 40°C)

When formulating, ensure you follow the mixing instructions and pH requirements for each ingredient to maintain their stability and efficacy. Using AnyGel™ as the primary thickener at the recommended rate of 1.5-2.0% will help you achieve the desired non-peel-off mask texture, and you can then incorporate the botanical extracts at their recommended percentages.