Formulating a Physical Sunscreen Cream: Mixing Procedure

Asked by: kanyarach On: March 02, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a list of ingredients for a sunscreen cream formulation. Could you please provide a step-by-step procedure on how to mix these ingredients to create the cream? The ingredients include:

  • Micronized Zinc Oxide
  • Micronized Titanium Dioxide
  • Soft Cream Maker
  • Isododecane
  • Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
  • Butylene Glycol
  • Propanediol
  • Methylpropanediol
  • Methyl Gluceth-20
  • Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Carbomer
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolmer
  • Saxifrage Sarmentosa Extract
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
  • DL-alpha-tocopheryl-acetate
  • Glyceryl Stearate
  • Steareth-2
  • PEG-100 Stearate
  • Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate
  • Dimethicone
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Caprylhydroxamic Acid
  • Triethanolamine
  • Water (as the base)

I would like to know the correct order and method for mixing these components to achieve a stable sunscreen cream.

Answer

How to Mix Your Sunscreen Ingredients

Based on the ingredients provided and the staff's guidance, here is a general procedure for mixing these components to create a sunscreen cream. This formula involves creating an emulsion (mixing oil and water phases).

Key Ingredients Highlighted by Staff:

  • UV Filters: Micronized Zinc Oxide, Micronized Titanium Dioxide
  • Emulsifier: Soft Cream Maker (recommended at ~3%)
  • Emollients: Isododecane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (recommended at ~5-7% each)

The full ingredient list you provided is quite comprehensive and includes other important components like thickeners, humectants, preservatives, and antioxidants. A typical process for a formula like this involves combining ingredients into different phases and mixing them under controlled conditions.

General Mixing Procedure:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine water with water-soluble ingredients such as humectants (Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Methylpropanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Sodium Hyaluronate), water-soluble thickeners (Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolmer), and water-soluble extracts (Saxifrage Sarmentosa Extract). Heat this phase to approximately 70°C.
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase: Combine oil-soluble ingredients including emollients (Isododecane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Dimethicone), oil-soluble actives (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-acetate), and emulsifiers (Soft Cream Maker, Glyceryl Stearate, Steareth-2, PEG-100 Stearate, Dioctyldodeceth-5 Lauroyl Glutamate). Heat this phase to approximately 70°C.
  3. Disperse UV Filters: In a separate container, disperse the Micronized Zinc Oxide and Micronized Titanium Dioxide in a small amount of the water phase or a suitable oil/silicone from your formula. Use high shear mixing (like a homogenizer) to ensure the powders are fully and evenly dispersed without clumps.
  4. Emulsification: Slowly add the heated Oil Phase to the heated Water Phase while stirring continuously. Then, add the dispersed UV filter phase to this mixture. Maintain continuous stirring for 3-5 minutes at temperature to form a stable emulsion.
  5. Cooling: Remove the mixture from heat and continue stirring gently while it cools down.
  6. Add Cooling Phase Ingredients: Once the temperature drops below 40°C, add heat-sensitive ingredients. This typically includes preservatives (Phenoxyethanol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid). If you used Carbomer in the water phase, neutralize it now with Triethanolamine to thicken the cream. Add any remaining water-soluble ingredients like Sodium Hyaluronate or extracts not added in step 1.
  7. Final Mixing and Adjustments: Continue stirring until the cream is uniform and has reached room temperature. Check the texture and pH, adjusting the pH if necessary using a suitable acid or base (like Triethanolamine if not already used for Carbomer neutralization).

This procedure provides a framework. Specific mixing speeds, times, and temperatures might need fine-tuning based on the exact quantities and types of ingredients used to achieve the desired texture and stability.