Formulating a Rich Body Cream

To create a rich body cream similar to L'occitane Ultra Rich Cream, incorporating Shea butter and Sweet almond oil, here's a guide based on your formula and expert advice:

Ingredient Adjustments

• Shea Butter (10%) & Sweet Almond Oil (5%): These are excellent moisturizing ingredients. You can start with these percentages. If you want a heavier texture, you can increase the amount of Shea butter. The maximum amount you can include depends on your chosen emulsifier system and overall formula stability, but both can be used at high concentrations.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): The expert recommended increasing Vitamin B3 from 2% to 4% for better skin benefits, such as reducing redness and improving skin barrier function. Safe-B3™ can be used safely up to 10%.
• Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol): Add about 1% Vitamin E to your formula. This ingredient is present in the reference product and provides antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties. It should be added to the oil phase.
• Urea: Your 3% Urea provides moisture. For very dry skin, increasing Urea to 5% can offer enhanced hydration. If using 5% or more, consider adding Gluconolactone (approx. 15% of Urea amount) and potentially Triacetin (approx. 1:10 ratio with Urea) to help stabilize the Urea and prevent pH changes over time, especially in warmer conditions.
• Hydrolyzed Silk Protein (as Hydro protein) & Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (as Amino acid): Your percentages (3% each) are within typical ranges for skin conditioning and moisturizing. Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids at 3% is effective for hydration.
• Aloe Vera Extract: Your 3% is within the recommended usage range for moisturizing and soothing benefits. Be aware that Aloe Vera Extract is an electrolyte and can affect the viscosity of some thickeners/emulsifiers.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): Your 4% is a good concentration, especially when combined with Vitamin B3, for benefits like reducing dark spots and boosting hyaluronic acid production.
• Cococin: A specific product named "Cococin" was not found. Please ensure you are using the correct ingredient name.
• Additional Moisturizers: For very dry skin, consider adding MOIST72™ at 2-5% for long-lasting hydration. If skin irritation is a concern, Beta Glucan (Oat Extract) at 0.1-1% can be beneficial, though it might be more cost-effective for facial products.

Emulsifier and Thickener System

You should choose one system for emulsifying and thickening, not combine Light Cream Maker™ with Cetyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate SE as proposed.

• Option 1: Light Cream Maker™: The expert suggested using Light Cream Maker™ at 1.5-2% to achieve a texture similar to the reference product. This is a cold-process emulsifier and thickener that is easy to use. If your formula contains electrolytes (like Aloe Vera Extract or Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids), you might need the higher end of this range (1.5-2%) or slightly more to get the desired thickness. It can handle up to 20% oil, and potentially more with careful formulation.
• Option 2: Cetyl Alcohol + Glyceryl Stearate SE: The expert noted that 1% of each is not enough for a rich cream. If you choose this system, you will need to use higher percentages of both ingredients and follow a hot-process method where they are melted in the oil phase.

Using Light Cream Maker™ is simpler as it does not require heat and is recommended by the expert for a texture closer to the L'occitane cream.

Summary of Suggested Changes

To get closer to the desired texture and performance based on expert advice:

1. Increase Vitamin B3 to 4%.
2. Add Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) at ~1%.
3. Choose Light Cream Maker™ at 1.5-2% (adjust based on desired thickness and electrolyte content) OR use higher percentages of Cetyl Alcohol + Glyceryl Stearate SE (requiring heat).
4. Consider increasing Shea Butter if a heavier feel is needed, ensuring emulsifier compatibility.
5. Consider adding MOIST72™ (2-5%) for enhanced hydration.
6. Ensure your preservative system (e.g., Propylene Glycol + another preservative) is effective for the entire formula, especially with natural extracts.