Formulating a Stable Vitamin C Serum (L-Ascorbic Acid) similar to Kiehl's

Asked by: thep.siriporn On: November 04, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like a formula or guidance on how to create a stable Vitamin C serum using L-ascorbic acid, similar to products like Kiehl's. What are the key considerations for stability, suitable bases (like anhydrous or water-based), necessary additives (like antioxidants or chelating agents), optimal pH levels, and storage conditions?

Answer

Vitamin C Serum Formulation Similar to Kiehl's

To create a Vitamin C serum similar to Kiehl's, which often features L-ascorbic acid, the most effective form of Vitamin C, it's important to consider the stability of L-ascorbic acid. L-ascorbic acid is potent but can oxidize easily when dissolved in water.

One approach is to use L-ascorbic acid in an anhydrous (water-free) base, such as a silicone serum. The Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine) grade is particularly suitable for this type of formulation as its small particle size allows for easier dispersion in non-aqueous bases.

Another method to enhance stability is by combining L-ascorbic acid with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid. The product Vitamin C E Ferulic utilizes this technology to help stabilize Ascorbic Acid.

When formulating with L-ascorbic acid, ensure the final product has a low pH (typically between 2.0-4.0) for optimal absorption and efficacy, keeping in mind that the FDA requires cosmetics applied to the skin to have a pH of at least 3.5. Also, consider adding a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA if using a water-based formula to help protect the Vitamin C from metal ions.

Storage is crucial for L-ascorbic acid serums. Store the finished product in a cool, dark place, ideally in the refrigerator, in an airtight container to minimize oxidation.

Key considerations:

  • Vitamin C Form: L-ascorbic acid is highly effective.
  • Stability: Use an anhydrous base or combine with Vitamin E and Ferulic Acid.
  • pH Level: Maintain a low pH for efficacy (above 3.5 for FDA compliance).
  • Storage: Store in a cool, dark place.

For specific ingredients, consider using Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine) or Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Fine) depending on your formulation base, and potentially Vitamin C E Ferulic for a stabilized blend.

  • Please note that creating a formulation exactly equivalent to a commercial product like Kiehl's requires detailed knowledge of their proprietary formula, which is not publicly available. This information provides a general guide based on common practices for stable L-ascorbic acid serums.*