Formulating a Thick Clay Mask: pH and Mixing Questions
Question
I am formulating a thick mask and have switched from Satin Cream Maker (which was too light) to Rich Cream Maker to achieve a thicker texture.
I previously had significant pH issues when using Glycolic Acid.
I have some questions about the pH of the formula. If the information states that the formula's pH should be 4, does this mean before adding the active ingredient? Is it acceptable if the pH changes after adding the active?
My current revised formula is:
- Water: Remaining percentage
- Rich Cream Maker: 5%
- Propylene Glycol: 5%
- Salicylic Acid: 2%
- Bentonite Clay: 10%
- Papaya Enzyme: 1%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
- Methylsulfonymethane: 5%
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 0.8%
- Vanilla Flavor: 1%
Based on my understanding, the mixing method is as follows:
- Combine Water, Propylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Bentonite Clay, Papaya Enzyme, Disodium EDTA, Methylsulfonymethane, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Vanilla Flavor.
- Heat Rich Cream Maker to 60°C.
- Add the heated Rich Cream Maker to the mixture from step 1 and leave until it reaches room temperature.
- Combine the water phase and the cream/oil phase.
Is this mixing method correct? Are there still pH issues with this formula?
Answer
Understanding pH and Mixing for Your Carbon Clay Mask
Thank you for sharing your revised formula for the carbon clay mask using Rich Cream Maker. You have questions about pH and the mixing process, as well as the overall strength of the formula.
Regarding your initial question about PVP-K90, the staff is still gathering specific usage information for mask applications, so details on percentage and dry mixing suitability are not available at this time.
Let's address your questions about your revised formula:
pH Considerations
You are correct that adding acidic ingredients like Salicylic Acid will change the pH of your formula. The recommended pH for a cosmetic product refers to the final pH of the finished product, after all ingredients have been added and the formula is complete.
Both Salicylic Acid and Papaya Enzyme are sensitive to pH:
- Salicylic Acid: Works best for exfoliation at an acidic pH, typically pH 3-4.
- Papaya Enzyme (Papain): Is most stable and active in a slightly acidic to neutral range, generally pH 5.5-7.0. It also requires Disodium EDTA for stability.
This creates a conflict in your formula. To get the best exfoliating benefits from 2% Salicylic Acid, you would aim for a final pH around 3.5-4. However, this pH is too low for optimal Papaya Enzyme activity and stability. You will need to measure the pH of your final mixture and adjust it to your desired range using a pH adjuster (like Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution).
Mixing Method
Your proposed mixing method is unconventional for creating a stable emulsion mask with Rich Cream Maker. Rich Cream Maker is an emulsifier designed to combine water and oil phases. A more standard approach is:
- Water Phase: Combine Water, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, and Methylsulfonymethane. Disperse Bentonite Clay, Activated Carbon, and RiceSorb in this phase, ensuring they are fully hydrated.
- Salicylic Acid: Dissolve Salicylic Acid powder in a small amount of Propylene Glycol before adding it to the water phase.
- Oil Phase: Prepare the Rich Cream Maker in a separate container. Follow the supplier's instructions regarding heating (some emulsifiers require heating, others are cold process).
- Emulsification: If heating is required, heat both the water and oil phases to the recommended temperature. Combine the heated phases and mix thoroughly (e.g., with a stick blender) to form the emulsion. If cold process, combine at room temperature and mix.
- Cooling: If heated, cool the emulsion while mixing gently.
- Add Sensitive Ingredients: Below 40°C, add Papaya Enzyme. Below 60°C, add Phenoxyethanol SA. Add Vanilla Flavor.
- pH Adjustment: Measure the final pH and adjust it to your target range.
Formula Strength
Your formula contains a potent combination of exfoliants (2% Salicylic Acid, Papaya Enzyme) and absorbents (Bentonite Clay, Activated Carbon, RiceSorb). While these are common in masks, the concentration of Salicylic Acid is the maximum allowed in leave-on products, and combined with other actives, it could be strong. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the mask to your entire face to check for sensitivity.
Preservative
Yes, a preservative is necessary for any product containing water to prevent microbial growth. Your formula includes Phenoxyethanol SA, which serves this purpose, provided the final pH is within its effective range (pH 2.0-6.0).
By following a standard mixing procedure and carefully controlling the final pH, you can create a more stable and effective mask, though you will need to consider the pH limitations for Papaya Enzyme activity when prioritizing Salicylic Acid efficacy.
Related Products Mentioned
Propylene Glycol (USP)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Disodium EDTA
Pure MSM™ (Methylsulfonylmethane)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)