Formulating a Thick Massage Cream: Ingredient Ratios and Mixing Method

Asked by: jn_andy On: May 19, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need a formula for a thick massage cream using the following ingredients. I want a thick, heavy texture that stays on the skin for massage and doesn't absorb too quickly.

Please provide recommended percentage ranges for each ingredient and a general mixing method (Hot Process Emulsion) to achieve this texture.

Ingredients available:

  • Cetearyl Alcohol
  • Soft Cream Maker (Glyceryl Stearate / PEG-100 Stearate)
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Benzyl Alcohol
  • Potassium Sorbate
  • Ethyl Ascorbic acid
  • Tocopherol
  • Bisabolol
  • Hyaluronic Acid Liquid
  • Oil
  • Water

Answer

Subject: Recommended Formula Ratios and Method

Hello,

Thank you for your question about formulating a thick massage cream using your list of ingredients. Based on your desired texture (thick, heavy, stays on the skin for massage) and the ingredients provided, including the suggestions from the staff response (using Soft Cream Maker and Cetearyl Alcohol), here are some recommended percentage ranges and a general mixing method.

Please note that these are general guidelines. The exact percentages may need adjustment depending on the specific type of oil used and the precise texture you want to achieve. Always refer to the supplier's recommended usage rates for each specific ingredient, especially for active ingredients and preservatives.

Recommended Percentage Ranges (General Guidance):

  • Water (Phase A): 60-75% (Adjust this amount to make the total formula 100%)
  • Oil (Phase B): 15-30% (Use a higher percentage for a heavier feel)
  • Soft Cream Maker (Phase B - Emulsifier): 3-7% (Use a higher percentage for a thicker emulsion)
  • Cetearyl Alcohol (Phase B - Thickener/Stabilizer): 2-5% (Helps build viscosity and stabilize the cream)
  • Active Ingredients (Phase C - Add during cool-down):
    • Ethyl Ascorbic acid: 0.5-5%
    • Tocopherol: 0.1-2%
    • Bisabolol: 0.1-1%
    • Hyaluronic Acid Liquid (assuming 1% solution): 1-10% (Check the concentration of your specific product)
    • Total Actives: The total percentage of active ingredients will depend on your desired efficacy and the recommended rates for each.
  • Preservatives (Phase C - Add during cool-down):
    • Phenoxyethanol: 0.5-1%
    • Benzyl Alcohol: 0.5-1%
    • Potassium sorbate: 0.1-0.5% (Note: Potassium Sorbate requires an acidic pH, typically below 5.5, and is often used with an acidifier like Citric Acid, which is not in your list. Ensure compatibility and efficacy of your chosen preservative system and follow supplier guidelines.)
    • Total Preservatives: Follow supplier recommendations for the specific blend or individual preservatives used, ensuring the total is effective and within regulatory limits.

Example Percentage Breakdown (Illustrative - Adjust based on desired texture and supplier data):

For a thick, heavy cream:

  • Water: 62%
  • Oil: 25%
  • Soft Cream Maker: 6%
  • Cetearyl Alcohol: 4%
  • Ethyl Ascorbic acid: 1.5%
  • Tocopherol: 1%
  • Bisabolol: 0.5%
  • Hyaluronic Acid Liquid (1% solution): 3%
  • Preservative Blend (e.g., Phenoxyethanol + Benzyl Alcohol): 1% (Adjust based on specific preservatives used)

  • (Note: This example uses a simplified preservative blend for illustration. If using Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, and Potassium Sorbate, you must ensure compatibility and proper usage rates, especially considering the pH requirement for Potassium Sorbate.)*

General Mixing Method (Hot Process Emulsion):

  1. Prepare Phase A (Water Phase): Combine Water and Hyaluronic Acid Liquid (if adding to water phase) in a heat-resistant beaker. Heat gently to 70-75°C.
  2. Prepare Phase B (Oil Phase): Combine Oil, Soft Cream Maker, Cetearyl Alcohol, and Tocopherol in a separate heat-resistant beaker. Heat gently to 70-75°C, stirring until all solids are melted and the phase is uniform.
  3. Combine Phases: Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while stirring continuously with a homogenizer or high-shear mixer for 3-5 minutes to create the emulsion. Maintain the temperature around 70-75°C during this step.
  4. Cooling: Switch to a slower stirring method (e.g., paddle stirrer) and allow the emulsion to cool down gradually while stirring.
  5. Add Phase C (Cool-Down Phase): When the emulsion has cooled to below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients: Ethyl Ascorbic acid, Bisabolol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, and Potassium sorbate (if used, ensure pH is appropriate or adjust pH after adding). Stir until fully incorporated.
  6. Final Adjustments: Check the pH of the final product and adjust if necessary, especially if using pH-sensitive ingredients or preservatives like Potassium Sorbate. The typical pH range for skin creams is 4.5-6.5.
  7. Packaging: Once fully cooled and uniform, package the cream.

Remember that formulation requires testing and adjustment to achieve the desired texture and stability. Starting with the higher end of the recommended ranges for the oil phase, Soft Cream Maker, and Cetearyl Alcohol will help you achieve a thicker cream.

We hope this guidance is helpful!