Formulating a Timed-Release BHA Product: Texture, pH, and Preservation Questions
Question
Regarding the formulation of a product similar to Paula's Choice BHA 9, I have the following questions:
- Can the product be a clear liquid and not a gel texture?
- Does the pH need to be adjusted down to 3-3.5? If so, what should be used for adjustment?
- Is it necessary to add a preservative?
Answer
How to Mix a Paula's Choice BHA 9 Type Product
Based on the discussion, here's how you can create a product similar to Paula's Choice BHA 9 using ingredients available from our store, focusing on ingredient substitutions and usage percentages.
The key active ingredient in Paula's Choice BHA 9 is a timed-release Salicylic Acid. Our store now offers Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed-Release BHA) (Product ID 229), which is similar and highly recommended for replicating the original product's characteristics.
Here are the ingredients from the Paula's Choice formula that are available or have suitable substitutes from our store:
- Active Ingredient:
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed-Release BHA) (Product ID 229): Recommended.
- Alternative: Salicylic Acid (Standard) (Product ID 148): Requires solvent, less gentle.
- Solvent/Penetration Enhancer:
- Propylene Glycol (Product ID 138): Essential for standard SA, useful with Encapsulated SA.
- Nourishing/Soothing:
- Oat Beta Glucan (Product ID 146): Substitute for Avena Sativa.
- Glycerin (Product ID 143).
- Optional: Allantoin (Product ID 75) - Max 0.5% of water phase.
- Not available/recommended: Boerhavia Diffusa, Sea Whip Extract.
- Skin-feel/Stabilizer:
- Polysorbate 20 (Product ID 175).
- Disodium EDTA (Product ID 184).
- Thickeners (substitutes for PEGs): Xanthan Gum (Product ID 142) or Hydroxyethylcellulose (Product ID 182) if a gel texture is desired.
Recommended Percentages:
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Timed-Release BHA): Use at 6.6%. This provides an effect similar to ~2% standard SA but is gentler and timed-release. Using 9% is generally not recommended and may exceed cosmetic regulations.
- Salicylic Acid (Standard): Do not exceed 5%. 2% is often used. Requires sufficient Propylene Glycol to dissolve (e.g., 40% or adjust as needed).
Mixing and Usage Tips:
- If using standard SA, dissolve it completely in Propylene Glycol before adding other ingredients.
- Precipitation can occur with standard SA (insufficient PG, too much Allantoin). Encapsulated SA disperses better.
- pH Adjustment: Not needed for comedone treatment (pH ~4.5-5 is fine). For exfoliation, adjust pH to 3.3-3.5 using Lactic Acid (recommended for added benefits).
- Preservative: Recommended to ensure product stability and safety, as SA doesn't kill all microbes.
- Mixing with other products: Encapsulated SA can often be mixed into other products, but test compatibility first (e.g., with Hyaluronic Acid).
- Waiting 15-20 minutes after application before applying other products is good practice, especially if pH is low.
We hope this helps you create your desired BHA product!
Related Products Mentioned
Allantoin
Propylene Glycol (USP)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)