Formulating an Exfoliating Gel Serum for Acne, Dark Spots, and Clogged Pores
Question
I want to formulate an exfoliating gel for nighttime use. My skin has dark spots, acne marks, is dull, and has clogged pores.
My proposed formula is:
- Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%
- Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) 10%
- Water 79%
Can I mix these ingredients together using only manual stirring, without a blender? Or can you recommend alternative ingredients or methods? Thank you.
Answer
Exfoliating Gel for Dark Spots, Acne Marks, and Clogged Pores
Your proposed formula is interesting. The main ingredients, Papaya Enzyme (Papain) and Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), are excellent actives for exfoliating skin and reducing issues like dark spots, acne marks, and clogged pores. They can be combined, but there are considerations and additional ingredients recommended to ensure the formula's stability and effectiveness.
Considerations and Recommended Additional Ingredients:
- pH Level: Papain works optimally in the pH range of 5.5-7.0, and Liquid Azelaic™ is effective within pH 5-11. Therefore, the final pH of your formula should be adjusted to be within the 5.5-7.0 range to ensure both actives function at their best.
- Papain Stability: Papain is a relatively sensitive enzyme. It's recommended to add about 0.1-0.2% Disodium EDTA to chelate metal ions that could degrade the enzyme. Storing the finished product in the refrigerator will significantly extend the enzyme's activity and shelf life.
- Silky Serum Base Stability: The Silky Serum Base manufacturer recommends adding about 1% Magnesium Sulfate to improve the gel's stability and prevent separation.
- Preservative: Since your formula contains 79% water, adding a preservative is essential to prevent microbial growth. Choose a broad-spectrum preservative suitable for the target pH range (5.5-7.0), such as Global Guard™ 221 or Mild Preserved™ COS, at the manufacturer's recommended usage rate.
- Mixing Method: When using Silky Serum Base, water and water-soluble ingredients should be added gradually to the base, stirring well after each addition before adding more. While manual mixing is possible without a blender, adding large amounts of water at once can make it harder to achieve a uniform consistency. Patience and thorough stirring are key.
Suggested Revised Formula:
- Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%
- Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 10%
- Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye) 10%
- Disodium EDTA 0.1-0.2%
- Magnesium Sulfate 1%
- Preservative (e.g., Global Guard™ 221) at recommended usage rate
- Water Remaining portion (approx. 77.8 - 77.9%)
Mixing Steps (Manual Mixing):
- Prepare all water-soluble ingredients (Papain, Liquid Azelaic™, Disodium EDTA, Magnesium Sulfate, Preservative, and water) in a separate container and mix them well.
- Gradually add the water mixture from step 1 into the Silky Serum Base, adding only a small amount at a time.
- Stir or mix thoroughly until the added portion is well incorporated before adding the next small amount of the water mixture. Repeat until all the water mixture is added.
- Once fully combined, measure the pH and adjust it to the range of 5.5-7.0 (use a mild acid or base if necessary).
- Package the product in a clean, opaque container.
- Store in the refrigerator.
This revised formula will help exfoliate the skin, reduce dark spots, acne marks, and control oiliness, contributing to a reduction in clogged pores. Storing the product in the refrigerator will help maintain the effectiveness of the Papain enzyme over time.
Related Products Mentioned
Disodium EDTA
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye)
Papaya Enzyme (Papain)