Formulating an SPF Gel/Serum with Pore Blurring, Mattifying, and Tightening Effects

Question

I am developing an SPF gel/serum, aiming for properties similar to NIVEA Men White Oil Clear Serum SPF50, but specifically incorporating pore blurring, mattifying, and skin tightening effects. I have created the following revised O/W emulsion formulation (25g Batch) which includes 10% Chamomile Water.

I need expert advice on whether this formulation is viable, if there are any recommended adjustments, and if there are any potential problems with ingredient compatibility or mixing procedures.

Revised From-Scratch Serum with 10% Chamomile Water (25g Batch)

Phase	Ingredient	Percentage	Weight (25g)	Function & Notes
A. Silicone Phase	Silky Serum Base Plus	15.0%	3.75 g	Core Base & Emulsifier
A. Silicone Phase	AquaForce™ BEMT	2.5%	0.63 g	UV Filter
A. Silicone Phase	Quick Blur	3.5%	0.88 g	Pore Blurring
A. Silicone Phase	Cyclopentasiloxane	2.0%	0.50 g	Solvent & Feel Enhancer
B. Water Phase	Purified Water	55.9%	13.98 g	Reduced to accommodate Chamomile Water.
B. Water Phase	Chamomile Water	10.0%	2.50 g	Provides scent & soothing benefits.
B. Water Phase	Propanediol	3.0%	0.75 g	Humectant
B. Water Phase	Sepimax Zen	0.8%	0.20 g	Thickener & Stabilizer
C. Powder Slurry	Amino Matte	2.0%	0.50 g	Oil Control & Matte Finish
C. Powder Slurry	SiliSilk™ 5H	0.5%	0.13 g	Sensory Enhancer
D. Cool-Down	FlashTenser™	3.0%	0.75 g	Tightening
D. Cool-Down	Lift-Now™	1.0%	0.25 g	Lifting
D. Cool-Down	Phenoxyethanol	1.0%	0.25 g	Preservative
D. Cool-Down	Bisabolol	0.2%	0.05 g	Soothing
D. Cool-Down	Magnesium Sulfate	0.2%	0.05 g	Formula Stabilizer
	TOTAL	100.0%	25.00 g

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Your revised SPF gel/serum formulation is structurally sound and well-designed to achieve the desired pore blurring, mattifying, and tightening effects. The use of Silky Serum Base Plus as the core emulsifier, combined with Sepimax Zen as a stabilizer, creates a robust O/W emulsion system suitable for a light serum.

Here is a detailed review and critical recommendation:

1. Critical Issue: Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

The most significant problem is the concentration of the UV filter.

AquaForce™ BEMT is a 20% active dispersion of BEMT. At your current usage of 2.5%, the active BEMT concentration is only 0.5%.
This concentration is far too low to achieve an SPF 50 rating. To reach a high SPF (e.g., SPF 50), you typically need a total active UV filter concentration of 5-10% or more, depending on the filter's efficiency.

Recommendation for SPF:
To realistically achieve a high SPF, you must significantly increase the UV filter. We recommend increasing AquaForce™ BEMT to 12.5%. This provides 2.5% active BEMT, which is a good starting point for a high-protection, broad-spectrum sunscreen, especially when combined with the film-forming properties of the base.

Adjustment: Increase AquaForce™ BEMT from 2.5% to 12.5% (a 10% increase). Reduce Purified Water from 55.9% to 45.9% to keep the formula at 100%.

2. Formulation Review (Pore Blurring, Mattifying, Tightening)

Ingredient	Percentage	Function	Review
Quick Blur	3.5%	Pore Blurring	Excellent concentration (1-5% range) for a noticeable blurring effect.
Amino Matte	2.0%	Mattifying/Oil Control	Good, effective concentration (1-5% range) for oil reduction.
FlashTenser™	3.0%	Quick Tightening	Good concentration (1-10% range) for immediate tightening.
Lift-Now™	1.0%	Lifting	Good concentration (1-3% range). Caution: The combination of 4.0% total film-formers (FlashTenser™ and Lift-Now™) may lead to pilling or difficulty with makeup application. Test the finished product for sensory issues.
Chamomile Water	10.0%	Soothing	A great addition for soothing and scent, and it will not affect the formula's stability.

3. Recommended Revised Formulation (25g Batch)

Phase	Ingredient	Recommended %	Weight (25g)	Notes
A. Silicone Phase	Silky Serum Base Plus	15.0%	3.75 g	Core Base & Emulsifier
A. Silicone Phase	AquaForce™ BEMT	12.5%	3.13 g	Increased for SPF boost (2.5% active BEMT)
A. Silicone Phase	Quick Blur	3.5%	0.88 g	Pore Blurring
A. Silicone Phase	Cyclopentasiloxane	2.0%	0.50 g	Solvent & Feel Enhancer
B. Water Phase	Purified Water	45.9%	11.48 g	Reduced to balance formula
B. Water Phase	Chamomile Water	10.0%	2.50 g	Soothing
B. Water Phase	Propanediol	3.0%	0.75 g	Humectant
B. Water Phase	Sepimax Zen	0.8%	0.20 g	Thickener & Stabilizer
B. Water Phase	Amino Matte	2.0%	0.50 g	Moved to water phase for easier dissolution
C. Powder Slurry	SiliSilk™ 5H	0.5%	0.13 g	Sensory Enhancer
D. Cool-Down	FlashTenser™	3.0%	0.75 g	Tightening
D. Cool-Down	Lift-Now™	1.0%	0.25 g	Lifting
D. Cool-Down	Phenoxyethanol	1.0%	0.25 g	Preservative
D. Cool-Down	Bisabolol	0.2%	0.05 g	Soothing
D. Cool-Down	Magnesium Sulfate	0.2%	0.05 g	Formula Stabilizer
	TOTAL	100.0%	25.00 g

4. Revised Mixing Instructions

Silicone Phase (A): In your main beaker, combine Silky Serum Base Plus, AquaForce™ BEMT, Quick Blur, and Cyclopentasiloxane. Stir until perfectly smooth.
Water Phase (B): In a separate beaker, combine the Purified Water, Chamomile Water, Propanediol, and Amino Matte. Stir until the powder is fully dissolved. Slowly sprinkle in Sepimax Zen while whisking to form a gel.
Emulsify: While whisking the Silicone Phase (A), slowly drizzle in the blended Water Phase (B) until fully incorporated and thickened.
Powders (C): Pre-mix SiliSilk™ 5H with a tiny bit of the main batch to form a paste, then mix back in.
Cool-Down (D): Add all remaining ingredients (FlashTenser™, Lift-Now™, Phenoxyethanol, Bisabolol, and Magnesium Sulfate) and stir gently to combine.