Formulation Advice for Anti-Aging Gel and SPF Cream

Here is some guidance regarding your questions about using DMAE Bitartrate and Sesaflash® together, and formulating a cream with Oil Free Titanium Dioxide for SPF.

DMAE Bitartrate and Sesaflash® in a Gel Formula

Yes, DMAE Bitartrate and Sesaflash® can be used together in a cosmetic formulation. Both ingredients are known for their anti-aging and skin-tightening properties, which can be beneficial for mature skin with wrinkles and sagging.

• DMAE Bitartrate: Works over time to help firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
• Sesaflash®: Provides a more immediate, temporary tightening or lifting effect.

As suggested in the forum reply, it can be beneficial to first try a formula focusing on DMAE to observe its effects on the skin before adding Sesaflash®. This helps you understand how the skin responds to DMAE specifically.

For a gel formula targeting anti-aging and lifting, especially for your mother's skin, a simple base using a hyaluronic acid gel is a good starting point. You can incorporate DMAE into this base.

Basic DMAE Gel Formula Suggestion:

• Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5-10%
• DMAE Bitartrate: 1-3% (Start with a lower percentage and increase if needed, following supplier recommendations)
• Water (or other suitable liquid base): Balance to 100%
• Preservative: As needed

Instructions: Mix DMAE Bitartrate into the water phase until dissolved. Then, add the Double Hyaluron Liquid and mix until a uniform gel is formed. Add preservative and mix. Note that DMAE is an electrolyte, which can sometimes affect the viscosity of certain gelling agents. You may need to adjust the percentage of the gelling agent (like Double Hyaluron Liquid) to achieve the desired texture.

Once you are satisfied with the DMAE gel, you can experiment with adding Sesaflash® for the temporary tightening effect. Follow the supplier's recommended usage rate for Sesaflash®.

Oil Free Titanium Dioxide for SPF 50

Your understanding that increasing the percentage of Titanium Dioxide increases SPF is generally correct, but the relationship is not linear (e.g., 50% doesn't automatically mean SPF 50). Achieving a specific high SPF like 50 requires careful formulation and, importantly, testing (in-vivo or in-vitro) to confirm the actual SPF value.

Using a very high percentage (like 50%) of a Titanium Dioxide dispersion, even an "Oil Free" or water-based one, is likely to result in a formula that is heavy, difficult to spread, and may leave a noticeable white cast on the skin. While the dispersion itself is not 100% active Titanium Dioxide (for example, Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) contains 28% active), using 50% of this dispersion would mean 14% active Titanium Dioxide, which is within typical ranges for high SPF, but the total solid content can still impact texture significantly.

Furthermore, for broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays, it is highly recommended to use a combination of both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Titanium Dioxide primarily protects against UVB and short UVA, while Zinc Oxide provides excellent protection against long UVA.

Instead of using 50% of a single UV filter dispersion, a more common approach for high SPF (like SPF 50) is to use a combination of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide dispersions at lower, optimized percentages. Typical total concentrations of physical filters (Titanium Dioxide + Zinc Oxide) in high SPF formulas often range from 15% to 25% of the active ingredients, which translates to higher percentages of the dispersions depending on their active content.

For example, using water-based dispersions like Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion) (28% active) and Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base) (45-48% active) in combination would be more effective for broad-spectrum SPF 50 than using a very high percentage of just one. You might start with a total dispersion percentage in the range that gives you around 15-25% active UV filter content combined, and adjust based on texture and desired protection level (keeping in mind that achieving SPF 50 requires validation).

Regarding your base formula structure (UV filter + Light Cream Maker + water), Light Cream Maker™ (ID 141) is a suitable emulsifier for creating a cream without heat. However, the percentage of Light Cream Maker™ needed will depend on the total amount of dispersed phase (the UV filter dispersions) and the desired cream viscosity. You may need to adjust its percentage (e.g., 1.5-3%) to get the right consistency with the high load of UV filter dispersions.

General SPF Cream Formula Structure (Requires Testing for SPF Value):

• Titanium Dioxide Dispersion (e.g., water-based): X%
• Zinc Oxide Dispersion (e.g., water-based): Y%
• Light Cream Maker™: Z% (Adjust based on desired viscosity and total dispersion %)
• Water: Balance to 100%
• Other desired ingredients (e.g., moisturizers, antioxidants, preservatives): As needed

Start with X and Y percentages that result in a total active UV filter content (X% * active content of TD dispersion + Y% * active content of ZnO dispersion) in the 15-25% range and adjust Z accordingly. Always perform stability testing on your final formula.

In summary, while you can combine DMAE and Sesaflash®, consider testing DMAE first. For SPF 50, avoid using excessively high percentages of a single physical filter dispersion; combining Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide dispersions is more effective for broad-spectrum protection and better texture, though achieving a specific high SPF requires formulation expertise and testing.