Formulating Anti-Aging Serum and Cream for Different Skin Types: Texture, Whitening, and Ceramides

ถามโดย: go_lf555 เมื่อ: June 08, 2014 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have two formulation questions:

  1. My first serum formula, consisting of:

    • Hyaluronic standard
    • Hyaluronic nano
    • Vit B3
    • Glucosamine
    • Alpha arbutin
    • Phenoxyethanol
    • Sterile water

    feels liquid and causes a tightening sensation on the face. I also haven't seen whitening results after one month. What could be the reasons for the texture and lack of immediate whitening?

  2. I am developing an anti-aging cream formula with the following ingredients for myself (age 32, combination skin, dullness, wrinkle prevention) and my mother (age 60, mature skin, wrinkles, likely drier, likes Ceramides):

    • Apple stem cell extract
    • Repair activator
    • Centella asiatica extract
    • Licorice extract
    • Matrixyl 3000
    • Cyclomethicone
    • Silicone gel
    • Warp cream maker
    • Sterile water

    I previously considered a cream formula with DMAE and wondered if 2% Light Cream Maker would be sufficient for a jar consistency. Is this new formula suitable for both my skin and my mother's skin? How can I improve it to specifically address dullness (for myself) and add Ceramides (for my mother)?

คำตอบ

Response to Your Formulation Questions

Hello! I understand that your first formulation attempt didn't turn out exactly as expected, and results take time.

Regarding your first serum formula (Hyaluronic standard, Hyaluronic nano, Vit B3, Glucosamine, Alpha arbutin, Phenoxyethanol, Sterile water) feeling liquid and tight, the viscosity depends on the total concentration and molecular weight of the Hyaluronic Acid used. Using a higher proportion of smaller or nano-sized Hyaluronic Acid can result in a less viscous texture and potentially a tightening feel on the skin as they penetrate deeper rather than forming a surface film. As for whitening, as mentioned by others, visible results typically require consistent use for at least 1 month.

Now, addressing your questions about the anti-aging cream formula you proposed:

  1. Light Cream Maker 2% for the initial proposed formula (with DMAE): In your first idea for a cream formula that included DMAE (which tends to reduce viscosity), using only 2% Light Cream Maker might not be sufficient to achieve a thick cream consistency suitable for packaging in a jar. As suggested in the previous replies, a higher percentage, perhaps around 3% or more, might be necessary, depending on the other ingredients in the formula.

  2. Formula for yourself (Age 32, Combination Skin, Dullness, Wrinkle Prevention) and your Mother (Age 60, Mature Skin, Wrinkles, likely Drier, likes Ceramides):

    • For You: The revised formula you listed (Apple stem cell extract, Repair activator, Centella asiatica extract, Licorice extract, Matrixyl 3000, Cyclomethicone, Silicone gel, Warp cream maker) contains excellent ingredients for anti-aging prevention and skin maintenance. Removing Sea Kelp Bioferment is a good adjustment for combination skin that doesn't require excessive moisture.
      • Addressing Dullness: To specifically target dullness as recommended by the staff, you could enhance the formula by adding a more potent whitening agent. Consider incorporating ingredients like Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite 377) or Hexylresorcinol AF at their recommended usage rates. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Glucosamine already in your formula also contribute to brightening, especially when used together.
      • Texture and Packaging: Using Warp Cream Maker with Cyclomethicone and Silicone gel is suitable for creating a light, non-greasy cream texture that is often preferred by those with combination skin. Packaging in a pump bottle is advisable for better hygiene and product stability compared to a jar.
    • For Your Mother: Skin at age 60 typically has different needs than skin at age 32, often being drier and requiring more intensive care for established wrinkles and barrier support. A single formula may not be ideal for both.
      • Ceramides: Adding Ceramides is a highly beneficial step for mature, drier skin. Ceramides are crucial for a healthy skin barrier, helping to reduce water loss and improve skin hydration and resilience. Products like Skin-Barrier™ (a liposomal ceramide complex) or Ceracare™ Liposome-3 (containing 5 types of ceramides) are excellent options to strengthen your mother's skin barrier and provide deep moisture.
      • Other Considerations: For mature skin, you might consider using higher recommended concentrations of anti-aging peptides like Matrixyl 3000. Additionally, selecting a cream base or emulsifier system that provides richer moisturization and nourishment than a light, silicone-based system might be more suitable for drier skin. Incorporating other emollients or humectants beneficial for mature skin could also be helpful.

In summary, your revised formula is well-suited for your needs. For your mother, a separate formula tailored to mature, drier skin, with a focus on Ceramides and richer moisturization, would likely yield better results.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
เครื่องสำอาง
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Sea Kelp Extract
Sea Kelp Extract
เครื่องสำอาง
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Light Cream Maker™
Light Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
เครื่องสำอาง
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
เครื่องสำอาง
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)
เครื่องสำอาง
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
เครื่องสำอาง
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
เครื่องสำอาง
Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder)
Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hexylresorcinol AF (e.q. Hentowhite)
Hexylresorcinol AF (e.q. Hentowhite)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ceracare™ NP50 (Water/Oil Dispersible Ceramide NP)
Ceracare™ NP50 (Water/Oil Dispersible Ceramide NP)
เครื่องสำอาง