Formulating Antioxidant Serum for Oily Skin (Inspired by Paula's Choice)
Question
I want to formulate a serum inspired by Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum, specifically for oily skin. I am aiming for a smoother texture compared to using Pro Polymer and want to avoid the pilling issue I experienced with Pro Polymer Silk.
I plan to use Silky Serum Base Plus (ID 710) and the following ingredients:
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Perfect C, ID 499)
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Pep-Coll, ID 50)
- Ceramide Complex (ID 46)
- Alpha Lipoic Acid (ID 882)
- Coenzyme Q10 (ID 483)
- Green Tea Extract (ID 729)
- Curcuma Longa Root Extract (White Cumin, ID 721)
- Ferulic Acid (ID 131)
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate, ID 65) at 1%
I also currently use oil control ingredients like Zinc PCA (ID 252) and MSM (ID 212) in my existing formula which has about 5% oil, and it works for me.
Could you please review this proposed formula? I would like feedback on ingredient compatibility, recommended percentages, and how to best work with the Silky Serum Base Plus to achieve the desired texture and avoid issues like the staff mentioned regarding mixing and needing equipment.
Answer
Subject: Feedback on Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum inspired formula for oily skin
Thank you for sharing your proposed formula inspired by Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum and providing context about your skin type and experiences.
Based on your proposed formula and the staff's feedback, here are some points to consider:
- Base (Silky Serum Base Plus): You mentioned wanting a smoother texture compared to Pro Polymer and avoiding pilling issues with Pro Polymer Silk. Silky Serum Base Plus (ID 710) is a good choice for a silky feel, and it contains Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethicone, which are present in the original Paula's Choice serum. However, as the staff noted, this base requires a specific mixing method (adding water phase to the base gradually) and may require mixing equipment to achieve the correct texture. Please ensure you have the necessary tools and follow the mixing instructions carefully.
- Ferulic Acid: The staff correctly pointed out that Ferulic Acid (ID 131) needs a solvent like Ethoxydiglycol (ID 137) to dissolve properly. If you are not including Ethoxydiglycol in your formula, you should either add it or remove Ferulic Acid.
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): The staff's suggestion to reduce the percentage of Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate, ID 65) from 1% to 0.1-0.2% is reasonable for oily skin. While Vitamin E is a great antioxidant, Tocopheryl Acetate can feel sticky at higher concentrations. Your formula already contains several other powerful antioxidants, so a lower percentage of Vitamin E should still provide antioxidant benefits without contributing excessive oiliness or stickiness.
- Other Ingredients: Your proposed formula includes many key antioxidants and skin-repairing ingredients found in the original serum, such as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Perfect C, ID 499), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Pep-Coll, ID 50), Ceramide Complex (ID 46), Alpha Lipoic Acid (ID 882), Coenzyme Q10 (ID 483), Green Tea Extract (ID 729), and Curcuma Longa Root Extract (White Cumin, ID 721). These are excellent choices for an antioxidant serum.
- Oil Control: You mentioned using oil control ingredients like Zinc PCA (ID 252) and MSM (ID 212) in your current formula. While the proposed formula focuses on replicating the antioxidant profile of the Paula's Choice serum, you might consider incorporating a small percentage of oil control ingredients if you feel it's necessary for your oily skin, provided they are compatible with the Silky Serum Base Plus and other ingredients. However, since you mentioned your current formula with 5% oil is acceptable, and the proposed formula uses a silicone-based serum base designed for a silky feel, the texture might be suitable without additional oil control actives.
Summary of suggested adjustments:
- If you want to keep Ferulic Acid (ID 131), add Ethoxydiglycol (ID 137) at the recommended usage rate for dissolving Ferulic Acid. If not, remove Ferulic Acid.
- Reduce Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate, ID 65) percentage to 0.1-0.2%.
- Be prepared for the specific mixing method required for Silky Serum Base Plus (ID 710).
Your proposed formula, with these potential adjustments, looks like a comprehensive antioxidant serum for oily skin, which incorporates many beneficial ingredients from the original product.
Related Products Mentioned
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Pure-Ferulic Acid™
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Coenzyme Q10 Extra
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)