Facial Cleanser Formulations

Here are some recommendations for your two facial cleanser formulations, addressing your questions about percentages and substitutions:

1. Cleansing Water (similar to Bioderma Sensibio H2O)

You plan to use MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides), Propylene Glycol, Water, and Phenoxyethanol.

• MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): You asked if 3% is enough for moderate makeup. While 3% can be a starting point for light makeup, for moderate makeup like foundation and powder, you will likely need a higher concentration. A range of 5-10% is more typical for effectively removing moderate makeup. You can start with 5% and adjust up to 10% based on your testing.
• Propylene Glycol: You asked for a suitable percentage. Propylene Glycol acts as a solvent and humectant. A typical range in cleansing waters is 2-5%. This helps solubilize the surfactant and provides a slight moisturizing feel.
• Phenoxyethanol: You proposed 0.5%. This is a standard and effective concentration for preserving cosmetic formulations and should be sufficient.

Suggested Starting Formula for Cleansing Water:

• Water: Add up to 100%
• MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): 5-10% (Start with 5% and adjust)
• Propylene Glycol: 3%
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%

Mix the ingredients until clear and uniform.

2. Foam-Free Cleanser (similar to Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser)

You plan to use Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol (or Glycerin), Coco Glucoside (replacing SLS), Stearyl Alcohol, and Phenoxyethanol (replacing parabens).

• Cetyl Alcohol: You asked for the percentage. Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps thicken the formula and provides an emollient feel. It works best in combination with other fatty alcohols like Stearyl Alcohol. A combined percentage of fatty alcohols (Cetyl + Stearyl) is typically 2-5%. If using only Cetyl Alcohol, start with 2-4%.
• Propylene Glycol vs. Glycerin: You asked if Glycerin can replace Propylene Glycol and at what percentage. Yes, Glycerin is an excellent humectant and can replace Propylene Glycol. A suitable range for Glycerin in this type of cleanser is 2-5%.
• Coco Glucoside: You asked if 5% is sufficient to replace Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). Coco Glucoside is a much milder surfactant and produces very little foam. 5% is generally sufficient for gentle cleansing, especially for morning use or as a second cleanse. If you need slightly more cleansing power, you could potentially increase the Coco Glucoside percentage.
• Stearyl Alcohol: You asked if it's necessary and what can replace it. Stearyl Alcohol contributes significantly to the texture, slip, and emollient feel. If you cannot obtain Stearyl Alcohol, you can increase the percentage of Cetyl Alcohol (e.g., to 4%) and potentially use a small amount of a polymeric thickener if needed for consistency, but the feel might be slightly different. If you can get it, using both Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohol (e.g., 2% Cetyl Alcohol, 2% Stearyl Alcohol) is recommended for the best texture match.
• Phenoxyethanol: You asked if 0.5% or 1% is suitable and mentioned irritation at 1%. Given your experience, it is strongly recommended to use 0.5% Phenoxyethanol. This concentration is standard and effective for preservation.

Suggested Starting Formula for Foam-Free Cleanser:

• Water: Add up to 100%
• Cetyl Alcohol: 2-4% (Adjust based on whether Stearyl Alcohol is used)
• Stearyl Alcohol: 0-2% (Use 2% if available, otherwise use 0% and increase Cetyl Alcohol)
• Glycerin: 3%
• Coco Glucoside: 5%
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%

To make this type of cleanser, you typically need to heat the water phase and the oil/fatty alcohol phase separately to melt the fatty alcohols. Then, combine the heated phases while stirring and continue stirring as it cools to form the emulsion. Add the Coco Glucoside and Phenoxyethanol during the cooling phase or once cooled.

Remember to always test your formulations on a small area of skin before widespread use.