Formulation Guidance: Double Hyaluron Liquid and Grapeseed Oil

Regarding your questions about mixing Double Hyaluron Liquid (water phase) and Grapeseed Oil (oil phase) at 50% each and using an emulsifier:

1. Emulsifier Suitability:

   • You are correct that Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) is generally used as a solubilizer for incorporating small amounts of oil (like essential oils or fragrances) into water, not for creating stable emulsions with high oil concentrations like 50%. Polysorbate 20 would not be suitable for emulsifying a 50% oil phase.
   • As suggested previously, Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™ are suitable emulsifiers for creating oil-in-water creams or lotions without needing heat.
   • Important Note on 50/50 Ratio: Both Light Cream Maker™ and Satin Cream Maker™ are designed to emulsify oil phases typically up to 20-25% of the total formula. Attempting to emulsify a 50% oil phase with these specific emulsifiers at their recommended usage rates (0.5-3%) is unlikely to result in a stable emulsion. The oil and water phases will likely separate over time.
   • To create a stable cream or lotion using Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™ with Double Hyaluron Liquid and Grapeseed Oil, it is highly recommended to adjust the ratio to have a lower oil percentage, ideally within the 20-25% range. For example, you could try a formula with 20-25% Grapeseed Oil, 74-79% Double Hyaluron Liquid (as the water phase), and 1% emulsifier (Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™).
   • Achieving a stable 50/50 oil-in-water emulsion typically requires a different type of emulsifier system specifically designed for high oil loads.

2. Usage Percentage and Mixing Steps (using Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™ with a feasible oil %):

   • Usage Percentage: For Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™, a starting usage rate of 1-1.5% is generally recommended for emulsifying oil phases up to 20-25%. You might need to adjust this percentage slightly depending on the desired thickness and the exact oil content (within the 20-25% range).
   • Mixing Steps: These emulsifiers are cold-process, meaning they don't require heating the oil and water phases separately to high temperatures. A general method is:
     • Combine the water phase ingredients (e.g., Double Hyaluron Liquid and any other water-soluble ingredients). Stir until uniform.
     • Combine the oil phase ingredients (e.g., Grapeseed Oil and any other oil-soluble ingredients).
     • Add the emulsifier. For Light Cream Maker™, you can add it to either the oil or water phase. For Satin Cream Maker™, add it to the water phase and stir briefly before adding the oil phase.
     • Combine the oil phase with the water phase. Mix continuously using a stirrer until a cream or lotion texture forms. This usually happens within a few minutes.

3. Mixing Equipment:

   • You can use a glass rod for small batches, but a low-speed mechanical stirrer or a cream mixer is more effective for achieving a smooth, uniform texture, especially for larger batches.
   • Important: Avoid high-speed mixing or spinning above 2500 rpm when using Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™, as this can damage the polymer structure and weaken the emulsion stability.

4. Preservative (Phenoxyethanol):

   • Yes, it is essential to include a preservative like Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) in any cosmetic formulation containing water to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety and shelf life.
   • The typical usage rate for Phenoxyethanol is 0.5-1.0%. For eye area products, the maximum recommended rate is 0.5%.
   • Mixing Step: Add Phenoxyethanol to the water phase during the mixing process. Ensure the temperature of the mixture is below 80°C when adding the preservative.

In summary, while mixing Double Hyaluron Liquid and Grapeseed Oil 50/50 is challenging with Light Cream Maker™ or Satin Cream Maker™, these emulsifiers are suitable for creating stable creams/lotions with a lower oil percentage (up to 20-25%). Always include a preservative like Phenoxyethanol in your water-based formulations.