Formulating Cream with Water-Capsule: Oil Limit, Gel Maker, and Texture

Question

I am formulating a cream using Water-Capsule. The product information states it can handle no more than 20% oil. If other oil phase ingredients are used, does this limit mean that only a small percentage, such as 2%, can be allocated for Isododecane? Also, for the water phase, do I have to use only Light Cream Maker or Satin Cream Maker as the gel maker, or can other gel makers be used with Water-Capsule?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the staff's previous advice, the Water-Capsule emulsifier requires a gel maker in the water phase to form a stable emulsion. Your proposed formula was missing this component, and the mixing method described is for Water-in-Oil EZ, not Water-Capsule. Water-Capsule also has an oil phase limit of around 20%, which needs to be considered when formulating.

Here is a revised formula suggestion using Water-Capsule, keeping the oil phase limit and your desired properties in mind. This formula includes ingredients for oil absorption and soft focus:

Revised Formula Suggestion (Water-Capsule based):

Water-Capsule: 3%
SPF Protect Ultra II: 10%
Isododecane: 5%
Oryzanol: 0.5%
SelectSorb: 3%
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (4.5 or 7 microns): 3%
Mild Preserve Eco: 1%
EDTA: 0.2%
Light Cream Maker or Satin Cream Maker: 1.5 - 2% (adjust for desired gel thickness)
Water: Balance to 100%

General Mixing Instructions for Water-Capsule:

Water Phase: Combine Water, Mild Preserve Eco, EDTA, and the chosen gel maker. Mix well until a smooth gel is formed.
Oil Phase: Combine Water-Capsule, SPF Protect Ultra II, Isododecane, Oryzanol, SelectSorb, and Polymethylsilsesquioxane. Mix well to disperse/dissolve.
Emulsification: While mixing the water phase with a suitable high-shear mixer, slowly add the oil phase to the water phase. Continue mixing at high shear until a uniform emulsion is formed.
Cooling and Final Mix: Cool the emulsion while mixing.

Notes:

This formula is close to the 20% oil limit. You may need to slightly adjust percentages.
Achieving SPF 50 PA++++ with this system and oil limit might require additional sunscreen filters.
Water-Capsule emulsions are generally water and sweat resistant.
The texture will be different from Water-in-Oil EZ and influenced by the powders, aiming for a less oily, matte finish.
Proper high-shear mixing is essential.

Regarding your previous formula issues and the sample from the lab, the staff indicated that the mixing equipment used (kitchen mixer/whisk) was likely the cause of instability, as high shear is needed for these emulsions. The lab sample used LipidSoft Lite instead of LipidSoft Dry, which can slightly affect texture.

For the Matte Silica issue, MatteSilica XL provides more friction and oil absorption than regular Matte Silica. You would likely need a higher percentage of regular Matte Silica to achieve similar oil absorption, but it might not provide the same level of matte finish or soft focus as XL or Polymethylsilsesquioxane.

For the packaging issues, please contact care@myskinrecipes.com for assistance.