Formulating Double Hyaluronic Gel: Adding Actives for Whitening, Anti-aging, Skin Barrier, and Bottle Compatibility
คำถาม
I am interested in using the Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel base for a day and night serum aimed at achieving whitening, reducing minor wrinkles (smile lines, around the eyes), and strengthening the skin barrier. I have oily, slightly dehydrated skin.
Initially, I considered adding the following ingredients:
- Glucosamine (N-Acetyl-D) 4%
- Vitamin B3 5%
- Alpha-Arbutin 2%
- Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A) 1.0%
- Argireline 10%
- Matrixyl™ 3000 8%
- Is this list of ingredients too extensive, or should I add anything else for the desired effects?
- If I want to further strengthen the skin barrier, I am interested in adding the following ingredients, but I am concerned about adding too many, especially since I have oily, slightly dehydrated skin:
- Vitamin B5 5%
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 5%
- Allantoin 0.2-0.5% (up to the maximum usable percentage)
- Green Tea Extract EGCG 3%
Are these necessary, or would they make the formula too heavy?
- Can the serum pump bottles with clear caps available at the store withstand acidic formulations? If so, what is the lowest pH they can tolerate?
คำตอบ
Formulation Advice for Double Hyaluronic Gel
Regarding your Double Hyaluronic Gel formulation and questions:
Whitening Ingredient Alternative
The staff's previous response correctly noted that Licorice Root Extract (Licochalcone A) is primarily for soothing and oil control, not whitening. For effective whitening, you already have Alpha-Arbutin in your list, which is a well-known and effective ingredient for reducing melanin production.
If you are looking for additional or alternative potent whitening ingredients, consider these options:
- Activated Resorcinol (4-Butyl Resorcinol): This ingredient is highly effective at inhibiting tyrosinase activity, which is key to melanin production. It is considered more potent than Alpha-Arbutin and Vitamin C for reducing pigmentation. It should be used at a concentration of no more than 1% in leave-on products.
- Phenylethyl Resorcinol (SymWhite 377): Another highly effective tyrosinase inhibitor, shown in studies to be significantly more potent than Kojic Acid. It also offers antioxidant benefits. Recommended usage is typically 0.1-1.0%.
Both Activated Resorcinol and Phenylethyl Resorcinol work through similar mechanisms to Alpha-Arbutin but are generally considered more potent. You could potentially use one of these in place of or in addition to Alpha-Arbutin, keeping in mind the recommended usage rates and potential for irritation, especially with Activated Resorcinol at higher concentrations.
Ingredient Load and Skin Barrier
Your initial list of ingredients (Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Alpha-Arbutin, Argireline, Matrixyl 3000) is not considered excessive. These ingredients target various concerns like hydration (Glucosamine, Vitamin B3, Matrixyl 3000), whitening (Alpha-Arbutin, Glucosamine, Vitamin B3), and anti-wrinkle (Argireline, Matrixyl 3000).
Regarding adding Vitamin B5, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Allantoin, and Green Tea Extract EGCG for skin barrier strength and hydration:
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): Known for its moisturizing, soothing, and skin barrier strengthening properties. It helps reduce transepidermal water loss.
- Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids: These mimic the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF), helping to keep the skin hydrated and supporting the skin barrier.
- Allantoin: A well-known soothing and anti-irritant ingredient that also promotes skin healing.
- Green Tea Extract EGCG: A powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties, which can help protect the skin barrier from environmental damage.
While these ingredients are beneficial for skin hydration and barrier support, the staff's previous response indicated that the combination of Vitamin B3, Glucosamine, and Matrixyl 3000 might be sufficient for your slightly dehydrated, oily skin. Adding all of these extra ingredients might make the formulation feel heavier or potentially lead to stickiness, especially in a gel base. You could consider adding one or two of these based on your specific needs, perhaps Vitamin B5 or Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids for added hydration support, and Allantoin for soothing.
Serum Bottle Acid Resistance
Based on the previous staff response, the serum pump bottles with clear caps available at the store can withstand acidity down to pH 3.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (e.q. Prodew 400)
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
Phenylethyl Resorcinol (e.q. SymWhite 377)
Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG)