Formulating Facial Cleanser/Cleansing Oil with High Concentration Oil Soap

Asked by: koiteeya On: November 18, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a liquid facial cleanser and plan to use Oil Soap. I have drafted a formula with a high percentage of Oil Soap.

  • Is the following formula suitable for a facial cleanser, especially considering the high percentage of Oil Soap?

    • Oil Soap 70%
    • Water 3%
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil (remaining %)
    • Jojoba Oil
    • Vitamin E Acetate
    • Oil Blender
  • With 3% Water in the formula, is a preservative necessary?

  • Can I remove the Water and replace it with Fractionated Coconut Oil? What kind of product would this create?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding the formula you proposed for an oil-based facial cleanser or liquid soap using Oil Soap as a base, here is some advice:

  1. Adjusting Proportions:

    • The proposed proportion of 70% Oil Soap is very high for a facial cleanser. Based on the staff's recommended starting point (25% in a water-free formula) and another user's experience where 50% caused irritation, using 70% is highly likely to cause skin irritation, eye stinging, or excessive dryness.
    • We strongly recommend significantly reducing the proportion of Oil Soap. The staff's sample formula (which is water-free) uses only 25% Oil Soap.
    • If you intend to make a liquid facial soap that contains water (as in your proposed formula), you should use Oil Soap at a much lower percentage than 70%. You might consider starting around 20-30% and adjusting the proportions of oils and water to reach 100%. Increasing the Oil Soap percentage for oily skin should be done cautiously with testing.
  2. Need for a Preservative:

    • Yes, a preservative is necessary. Since your formula includes water (3%), the presence of water makes it susceptible to microbial growth (bacteria, fungi). This can cause the product to spoil and potentially harm your skin. You should use a suitable preservative for water-containing products.
  3. Replacing Water with Coconut Oil:

    • Yes, this is possible, but it will change the type of product you create. If you remove the water entirely, your formula will become a Cleansing Oil (an oil-based makeup remover). This type of product is typically massaged onto dry skin and then emulsifies (turns milky) when rinsed with water, making it easy to wash off.
    • The sample formula provided by the staff is also a water-free Cleansing Oil.
    • If you specifically want a "liquid facial soap" that lathers well with water, then water is still needed in the formula, and consequently, a preservative is required.
    • If you are looking for a Cleansing Oil suitable for oily skin, removing the water and increasing the oil phase (like coconut oil or other oils suitable for oily skin) while using Oil Soap at an appropriate percentage (e.g., 25% as in the staff's sample) might be a better option.

In summary, your proposed formula (70% Oil Soap + 3% Water) is not suitable for a facial cleanser. You should significantly reduce the Oil Soap concentration, include a preservative, and consider whether you want a liquid soap (with water) or an emulsifying oil cleanser (water-free) to adjust the formula accordingly.