Formulating Your Facial Essence (น้ำตบ)

You have selected several excellent ingredients to address your skin concerns. You can indeed mix these ingredients together to create your own formulation.

Ingredient Compatibility: Copper Peptide and Disodium EDTA

It is very important to note that Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) should not be used in a formula containing Disodium EDTA. Disodium EDTA can bind with the copper ions in Copper Peptide, reducing its effectiveness.

Therefore, you must choose either to include Copper Peptide or Disodium EDTA in your formula, but not both.

• If your primary goal includes targeting acne scars and leveraging the specific benefits of Copper Peptide, omit Disodium EDTA.
• If you prefer to use a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA for general formula stability, omit Copper Peptide.

Recommended Usage Percentages

The correct usage percentage for each ingredient is specified on its individual product page on the website. You should always refer to these pages for the precise recommended range and any specific mixing instructions.

Here are the typical recommended usage ranges for the ingredients you listed, based on the product descriptions:

• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 1-10% (Safe-B3™ type can be used up to 10% without causing flushing)
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 1-8% (Recommended to use 4% in combination with Niacinamide 2-4%)
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera): 1-100%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Up to 3% (This is the maximum allowed for cosmetics; higher concentrations require drug registration)
• Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR): 3-5% (Recommended 3%)
• NaturePreserve™ Ultra (Preservative): 0.75-2.0% (Recommended 1.25%)
• Disodium EDTA: 0.1-0.2% (Recommended 0.2%) - Use ONLY if omitting Copper Peptide.
• Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu): 1-3% - Use ONLY if omitting Disodium EDTA.
• Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.5-5% (Recommended 0.8% for general gel texture) - Use ONLY if making a gel, NOT an essence.

Formulation Type: Essence vs. Gel

You mentioned wanting to make an essence ("น้ำตบ") which is typically a liquid formulation suitable for a spray bottle. The staff suggested a gel might be easier and more economical.

• Essence (Liquid): To make a liquid essence, you would mix your chosen water-soluble ingredients in water. Do not include Pro Polymer™ as it is a gel maker. This type of formulation is suitable for a spray bottle.
• Gel: To make a gel, you would add Pro Polymer™ to your water phase and mix until a gel forms. All your other ingredients can likely be incorporated into this gel base. A gel is not suitable for a spray bottle.

General Mixing Instructions

Regardless of whether you make an essence or a gel, here are general steps:

1. Prepare your water phase using distilled or clean water.
2. Add water-soluble powder ingredients like Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Tranexamic Acid, and NaturePreserve™ Ultra to the water phase. If you are using Disodium EDTA (and not Copper Peptide), add it here first before other ingredients. Mix until fully dissolved. Gentle warming may help dissolve some ingredients, but avoid prolonged high heat, especially for Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™.
3. If making a gel, add Pro Polymer™ to the water phase and mix slowly until the gel texture develops. This may take some time. Avoid high-speed blending.
4. Allow the mixture to cool to below 40°C.
5. Add heat-sensitive liquid ingredients such as Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Matrixyl 3000, and Copper Peptide (if using, and not using Disodium EDTA). Mix gently.
6. Check the pH of your final product. It should ideally be within a range that is compatible with all the ingredients you have included. For example, if using Copper Peptide and NaturePreserve™, aim for a pH between 4.5 and 6. If omitting Copper Peptide and using Disodium EDTA, a pH between 3 and 7 would likely be suitable for Safe-B3™, GlucoBright™, Tranexamic Acid, NaturePreserve™, and Disodium EDTA. Adjust pH if necessary using appropriate cosmetic-grade pH adjusters.
7. Pour the finished product into your chosen container. If making an essence, the spray bottle is suitable.

Remember to always check the specific instructions and precautions on each ingredient's product page, including storage requirements (some ingredients like Copper Peptide, Matrixyl 3000, and Tranexamic Acid require refrigeration).

By carefully selecting your ingredients (considering the Copper Peptide/EDTA incompatibility) and following the recommended usage rates and mixing instructions for each, you can create a customized formulation tailored to your skin's needs.