Formulating Lip Balm for Dark Lips and Sunscreen Lip Gloss

Asked by: may_pt81 On: February 19, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am interested in formulating two lip products: a gel lip balm for treating dark lips and a sunscreen lip gloss.

For the gel lip balm for dark lips, I was initially considering using AHA (Lactic or Glycolic Acid) for exfoliation and whitening. However, based on feedback, this might cause irritation and a sour taste. Could you recommend alternative gentle whitening agents suitable for a lip balm base (either water-based gel or oil-based balm)? Additionally, what moisturizing ingredients would be beneficial for this type of lip balm?

For the sunscreen lip gloss, what are the recommended safe UV filters for lip products, particularly physical sunscreens like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide? Could you suggest specific forms or types of these ingredients that are easy to incorporate into a lip gloss formulation? What are suitable preservatives for both types of lip products, considering they are applied to the lips?

Answer

Lip Balm and Sunscreen Lip Gloss Formulation Advice

Here is some guidance on formulating the two lip products you are interested in making:

Gel Lip Balm for Dark Lips

Regarding your idea to include AHA (Lactic or Glycolic Acid) for exfoliation and whitening, based on the staff's advice and general formulation experience, using AHA at effective concentrations on the lips can often cause irritation, tingling, and a sour taste. While theoretically possible for exfoliation, it is often not practical or comfortable for a lip product.

Instead of AHA for whitening, it is recommended to use gentle, non-exfoliating whitening agents. Suitable options found include:

  • GlyciWhite™: This ingredient (Glycinamide HCL) is shown to effectively counteract melanin production and is gentle on the skin. It is water-soluble and suitable for lotion or cream bases.
  • Azela-Lip™: This is a special ultra-fine powder form of Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate that can disperse in oil-based formulas, making it suitable for lipsticks, lip balms, and nipple balms aimed at reducing darkness.

For moisturizing and lip care, you can incorporate ingredients like:

  • LipidSoft™ Lux: An ester derived from plants that provides a texture similar to lanolin, offering good weight and texture to the product, and feeling good on the skin.
  • LipX®-Baby: A blend of amino acids designed for lip care in oil-based formulations, mimicking the amino acids found in baby skin for moisturizing benefits.

You can also include fresh aloe and various extracts, ensuring they are compatible with your chosen base (water-based gel or oil-based balm) and preserved correctly.

Sunscreen Lip Gloss

For a sunscreen lip gloss that is safe for the lips, physical sunscreens like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are commonly used and considered safe. Using a combination of both provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays.

Consider these options:

  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: A silicone-coated Zinc Oxide powder that disperses well in silicone or oil, suitable for physical sunscreen formulations.
  • Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss): A liquid form of nano Titanium Dioxide that is easy to mix into oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions and provides effective UV protection without significant whitening.

For preservation, especially in a product that might come into contact with the mouth, choosing safe and effective options is crucial. Suitable preservatives include:

  • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): A widely used, safe preservative effective against bacteria, though it may need to be combined with other preservatives for broad-spectrum coverage against fungi. The "Extra Pure" grade has lower impurities, reducing irritation risk.
  • Potassium Sorbate: Another common preservative used in cosmetics and food, effective against mold and yeast, and to a lesser extent, bacteria. Its effectiveness is pH-dependent.

Always perform stability and challenge testing to ensure the safety and efficacy of your final formulation, especially for lip products.