Formulating Liquid Serum with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid for Acne-Prone Skin
คำถาม
I am formulating a liquid serum for acne-prone skin using Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. I have received feedback on my previous base formulation and have developed three new formulas incorporating the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid. I would like feedback on these new formulas and have some additional questions.
Previous Base Formulation Feedback:
- Allantoin at 0.5% might not fully dissolve for a clear solution; 0.3-0.4% was suggested.
- Phenoxyethanol should potentially be increased to 1% for better preservation.
Proposed Formulations (with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid):
- Formula 1: Contains Aloe Vera, Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, Snail Secretion.
- Formula 2: Contains Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, MSM.
- Formula 3: Contains Glucosamine, Aloe Vera, Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, Vitamin B3 (at 5%).
I am aiming for a very liquid texture ("หยดติ๋ง ๆ").
Additional Questions:
- Are chemical sunscreens generally suitable for acne-prone skin, or are physical sunscreens always better?
- What are the key signs of irritation to look for when using BHA (Salicylic Acid)?
- I noticed a potential discrepancy in the description of L-Carnitine in the Ingredients Tester. Can this be reviewed?
Could you please provide feedback on the suitability of these new formulas for acne-prone skin and address my additional questions?
คำตอบ
Subject: Re: Ingredients suitable for acne-prone skin
Thank you for your detailed question and for incorporating the feedback received. It's good that you are focusing on ingredients like Salicylic Acid (BHA) which directly address clogged pores, as previously suggested.
Based on the feedback from the staff and chalermlap regarding your proposed formulations with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid:
Regarding the Base Formulation:
- Chalermlap noted that Allantoin at 0.5% might not fully dissolve; 0.3-0.4% might be better for a clear solution.
- Chalermlap also suggested increasing the Phenoxyethanol concentration to 1% for better preservation.
Regarding the Three Proposed Formulations (with Encapsulated Salicylic Acid):
- Formula 1 (with Aloe Vera, Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, Snail Secretion): Generally considered okay.
- Formula 2 (with Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, MSM): Chalermlap predicted this formula could be drying, potentially leading to dehydrated skin and potentially more acne.
- Formula 3 (with Glucosamine, Aloe Vera, Calendula, Licorice, Zinc PCA, Vitamin B3): Generally considered okay, but chalermlap suggested reducing Vitamin B3 from 5% to 2% as 5% might cause redness or irritation, especially when combined with BHA.
- Overall: As the staff mentioned, the best formula depends on your individual skin. Observing how your skin reacts is the most important factor. All three formulas contain ingredients that can help soothe and condition the skin, which is beneficial when using BHA.
Regarding your additional questions:
- Sunscreen: Chemical sunscreens are generally fine for acne-prone skin unless you specifically experience irritation or breakouts from them. Physical sunscreens are often recommended because they are less likely to cause irritation, but chemical sunscreens are not inherently problematic for acne unless you are sensitive to them.
- BHA Irritation: Yes, signs like peeling, flaking, and redness are key indicators of potential irritation from BHA. If you observe these, you should either reduce the frequency/concentration of BHA or focus on strengthening your skin barrier with soothing and hydrating ingredients, as the staff suggested.
Regarding your note about L-Carnitine:
- Thank you for pointing out the potential discrepancy in the description of L-Carnitine in the Ingredients Tester. This feedback will be passed on to the relevant team for review.
You mentioned wanting a liquid texture ("หยดติ๋ง ๆ"). The proposed formulations are expected to be liquid, which aligns with your preference. If you ever wish to thicken them slightly, Hydroxyethylcellulose was suggested, although chalermlap noted it can be tricky to work with.
Ultimately, starting with one of the less potentially irritating formulas (like Formula 1 or a modified Formula 3 with less B3), adjusting the base ingredients as suggested (Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol), and carefully observing your skin's response will be the best approach.